Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport


Book Description

Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.




Technical Report


Book Description

Some numbers issued in revised editions.




Geological Records of Tsunamis and Other Extreme Waves


Book Description

Geological Records of Tsunamis and Other Extreme Waves provides a systematic compendium with concise chapters on the concept and history of paleotsunami research, sediment types and sediment sources, field methods, sedimentary and geomorphological characteristics, as well as dating and modeling approaches. By contrasting tsunami deposits with those of competing mechanisms in the coastal zone such as storm waves and surges, and by embedding this field of research into the wider context of tsunami science, the book is also relevant to readers interested in paleotempestology, coastal sedimentary environments, or sea-level changes, and coastal hazard management. The effectiveness of paleotsunami records in coastal hazard-mitigation strategies strongly depends on the appropriate selection of research approaches and methods that are tailored to the site-specific environment and age of the deposits. In addition to summarizing the state-of-the-art in tsunami sedimentology, Geological Records of Tsunamis and Other Extreme Waves guides researchers through establishing an appropriate research design and how to develop reliable records of prehistoric events using field-based and laboratory methods, as well as modeling techniques. - Features a comprehensive overview of the state of the art in tsunami sedimentology and paleotsunami research - Offers advice on the most appropriate mapping, sampling, and analytical approaches for a wide variety of coastal settings and sedimentary environments - Provides methodological details for field sampling and the most important proxy analyses




NBS Special Publication


Book Description