What Shall I Wear?


Book Description

First published in 1956, What Shall I Wear? is revolutionary fashion designer Claire McCardell’s collection of fashion wisdom and philosophy, and a vivacious guide to looking effortlessly stylish. This new edition of the sought-after classic features a foreword by iconic designer Tory Burch and a color insert of photos from McCardell’s collections. “The testament to great design, Claire McCardell’s dresses look fresh, contemporary, and desirable eight decades after they were made, as the Costume Institute’s 2022 exhibit In America: An Anthology of Fashion demonstrated.” —Nicole Phelps, global director, Vogue Runway and Vogue Business “Among the many surprises and insights I discovered in McCardell’s valuable book is that she wanted to call it Fashion is Fun. That may also be the secret behind her genius and enduring influence—she refused to take fashion too seriously.” —Cathy Horyn, New York Magazine “The first designer to create a cohesive vision rooted in the American lifestyle of ease, McCardell and her contributions as a designer and a woman in business are often overlooked. Tory Burch’s new foreword . . .puts this American treasure in her rightful place.” —Constance White, fashion editor and author of How to Slay: Inspiration from the Queens and Kings of Black Style “Claire McCardell’s guiding philosophy of dressing with ease in afunctional, fashionable American look was groundbreaking—and feminist—for her times. And it continues to resonate globally on the runways and in closets today.” —Booth Moore, executive editor, Women’s Wear Daily




Claire Mccardell


Book Description

But at a time when every American designer of note was sent to Paris to copy the latest styles, McCardell shrugged off the Paris couture industry, refusing, after 1940, to visit the collections or even to look at Paris design for fear it might influence her. In Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism, coauthors Kohle Yohannan and Nancy Nolf have told a story that is as much biography as it is fashion history.




The Language of Fashion Design


Book Description

DIVExamine the basic elements and principles of fashion design in this comprehensive reference that defines each of the basic elements. This must-have book enhances visual literacy, and inspires with dynamic and memorable visual references./div




ITEMS


Book Description

An encyclopaedic selection of 111 garments, footwear, and accessories - from humble masterpieces to high fashion - that have had a strong impact on society in the 20th and 21st centuries and continue to hold currency today. Published to accompany the first major exhibition on fashion design at The Museum of Modern Art since 1944, Items: Is Fashion Modern? presents 111 iconic garments, footwear and accessories that have strongly influenced society in the 20th and 21st- centuries and continue to hold currency today. Organized alphabetically as a reference book, the publication examines the ways in which these items are designed, manufactured, distributed and used, while exploring the wide range of relationships between clothing and functionality, cultural etiquettes, aesthetics, politics and technology. Designs as wellknown and transformative as the Levi's 501s, the pearl necklace, the sari and Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking - and as ancient and historically rich as the Breton sweater, the kippah, and the keffiyeh - are included, allowing for exploration of the numerous issues these items have produced and shaped over many decades. Richly illustrated with historical and archival imagery as well as newly commissioned photography from Omar Victor Diop, Bobby Doherty, Catherine Losing, Monika Mogi and Kristin-Lee Moolman, Items reflects not only on fashion's power and social history, but also on its design construct and staying power, in order to understand what of the system of fashion should remain for generations to come - and what alterations need to be made to ensure a tenable future for this arena that touches us all.




Heavenly Bodies


Book Description

Since antiquity, religious beliefs and practices have inspired many of the world’s greatest works of art. These masterworks have, in turn, fueled the imaginations of fashion designers in the 20th and 21st centuries, yielding some of the most innovative creations in the history of fashion. Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination explores fashion’s complex and often controversial relationship with Catholicism by examining the role of spirituality and religion in contemporary culture. This two-volume publication connects significant religious art and artifacts to their sartorial expressions. One volume features images of rarely seen objects from the Vatican —ecclesiastical garments and accessories—while the other focuses on fashions by designers such as Cristobal Balenciaga, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Madame Grès, Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld, Jeanne Lanvin, Claire McCardell, Thierry Mugler, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Gianni Versace. Essays by art historians and leading religious authorities provide perspective on how dress manifests—or subverts—Catholic values and ideology.




In America: A Lexicon of Fashion


Book Description

A new glossary of American fashion explores the expressive qualities of works by pioneering designers, who established the nation’s style, and the up-and-coming designers shaping its future. In America: A Lexicon of Fashion presents a modern vocabulary of American dress that emphasizes emotions while not discounting the simple, practical, and egalitarian character that has traditionally separated American ready-to-wear from European haute couture. Stunning new photography showcases over 100 garments from the 1940s to the present that offer a timely new perspective on the diverse and multifaceted nature of American fashion. The catalogue features works that display qualities such as belonging, comfort, desire, exuberance, fellowship, joy, nostalgia, optimism, reverence, spontaneity, strength, and sweetness by well-known designers and emerging creatives, including: Gilbert Adrian Geoffrey Beene Thom Browne Bonnie Cashin Willy Chavarria Olivia Cheng Telfar Clemens Oscar de la Renta Colm Dillane Perry Ellis Tremaine Emory Tom Ford Rudi Gernreich Halston Elizabeth Hawes Carolina Herrera Conner Ives Charles James Kerby Jean-Raymond Donna Karan Calvin Klein Michael Kors Ralph Lauren Vera Maxwell Claire McCardell Norman Norell Heron Preston Christopher John Rogers Raul Solís Hillary Taymour Diane von Furstenberg Vera Wang




American Ingenuity


Book Description

Features designers Geoffrey Beene, Bill Blass, Tom Brigance, Fox-Brownie, Bonnie Cashin, Anne Fogarty, Halston, Elizabeth Hawes, Muriel King, Anne Klein, Tina Leser, Vera Maxwell, Claire McCardell, Fred Picard, Bobbie Yeoman, Clare Potter, Carolyn Schnurer, Valentina, Diane Von Furstenberg, Emily Wilkins, and B.H. Wragge.




1950s American Fashion


Book Description

The 1950s was the first decade when American fashion became truly American. The United States had always relied on Europe for its style leads, but during World War II, when necessity became the mother of invention, the country had to find its own way. American designers looked to what American women needed and found new inspirations for American fashion design. Sportswear became a strength, but not at the expense of elegance. Easy-wear materials were adapted for producing more formal clothes, and versatile separates and adaptable dress and jacket suits became hallmarks of American style. This book follows the American fashion industry from New York's 7th Avenue to the beaches of California in search of the clothes that defined 1950s American fashion.




Ballerina


Book Description

A gorgeously illustrated look at the profound influence that classical ballet and the ballerina have had on high fashion Ballerina: Fashion's Modern Muse is a revelatory, irresistible treat for dance aficionados and fashionistas alike. Couturiers such as Balmain, Balenciaga, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Charles James, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent designed ballet-inspired dresses and gowns, many featuring the boned bodices and voluminous tulle skirts of classical tutus. And ready-to-wear designers such as Claire McCardell found inspiration in ballet leotards and other practice clothing, creating knitted separates, bathing suits, and wrap dresses. Written by fashion and ballet experts, the book is illustrated with archival photography by such masters as Richard Avedon, Edward Steichen, Irving Penn, Man Ray, and Cecil Beaton, along with newly commissioned photography of contemporary ballerinas wearing ballet-influenced couture.




Sporting Fashion


Book Description

Discover how the designers of women's sporting attire navigated the worlds of fashion, function, and propriety, from the beginning of the 19th century to 1960. This book offers a stunning visual record of the evolution of women's sporting attire over nearly two centuries. With selections from Keds, Pendleton, and Spalding and garments by Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, and Jean Patou, among many others, it features familiar names in fashion, as well as significant rediscoveries. At the intersection of the history of fashion and feminism, Sporting Fashion highlights the extraordinary impact of new technologies and evolving social mores on women's clothing for sport. It explores how the basic forms of women's sportswear we know today--from swimsuits to sneakers--were developed during a time when women were achieving more freedom. Full color illustrations of sport and leisure ensembles are included, along with magazine spreads and archival images. In thematic sections, the authors examine the ways women entered into the sporting world--from traveling to calisthenics, motorcycling to promenading. The book looks at examples of clothing that allowed women to walk freely and compete in sports previously restricted to men. It explores how designers reacted to and encouraged the growing acceptance of exposed skin at public beaches and pools--and how cold weather fashion made its way onto the slopes and ice. Never before have the garments that defined women's roles as both spectators and athletes been presented on this scale and in such detail. Published with the American Federation of Arts and the FIDM Museum at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising/Los Angeles The Costume Society of America is pleased to announce Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson as recipients of the 2022 CSA Millia Davenport Publications Award for their work titled Sporting Fashion: Outdoor Girls 1800-1960.