Modern men's tailoring


Book Description

Bespoke tailoring A good silhouette is the DNA of a garment, a kind of architecture for textile ideas. In this book, practical step-by-step instructions ensure that inexperienced cutters can work out the perfect fit, on average body shapes, for a suit, a coat, pants and more - based on individual body measurements. From many years of experience, the internationally active tailor and master of this craft Sven Jungclaus passes on his professional knowledge to those who are interested. Because: The gentleman of today is wearing custom made!




Sex and Suits


Book Description

Since the dawn of western fashion in the Middle Ages, women's dress has never stopped evolving, yet menswear has seen far fewer style revolutions. At the centre of the male wardrobe is the suit: relatively unchanged since the 17th century, its cut and cloth suggest athleticism, seriousness, sexuality and strength – qualities which contrasted with the perceived superficiality and frivolity of female dress, and eventually led to the adoption of the suit into the female wardrobe where it remains to this day. In Sex and Suits brilliant essayist and art critic Anne Hollander charts the development of men's and women's fashion from their divergence in the medieval period to their convergence through to the late 20th century. Challenging the idea that the suit's success is merely down to its practicality, this trailblazing book argues that men have been fashion's true style-setters and that as women's fashion has taken on elements of men's style through tailoring, so men have reclaimed the embellishment and colour of past eras. First published in 1994 to great acclaim, this classic text is as fresh and provocative as ever and remains a must-read for students, scholars and anyone fascinated by the history of fashion and gender.




Men's Tailoring


Book Description

Men’s Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains: step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries; drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat; patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections. From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.




The Perfect Fit In Men's Tailoring


Book Description

Recognise and professionally correct fit errors Not every piece that suits halfway fits perfectly. Folds and wrinkles often appear in unwanted areas, or the wearer notices an uncomfortable feeling of tension because the garment is too tight somewhere. Body shapes are individual. Skillfully fitted garments do not restrict but envelop the body in the best possible way. This book guides you from taking the correct measurements and incorporating individual proportions to garments that fit like a second skin. Anyone who also develops an eye for the respective posture will optimise the fit. Sven Jungclaus explains the causes of poor fit based on specific manufacturing defects and offers the optimal solution to the most common problems. Use the step-by-step instructions to develop a trained view of individual postures and let the professional tips guide you through to the finished garment. Have fun realising your perfectly fitting piece!!







Tailor and Cutter


Book Description







Menswear Revolution


Book Description

In recent years, menswear has moved decisively center stage. Menswear Revolution investigates the transformation of men's fashion through the lens of shifting masculinities, examining how its increasing diversity has created new ways for men to explore and express their identities. Harnessing sustained market growth and creative dynamism on the runway, ground-breaking designers from Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane to Craig Green have revolutionized the discipline with their bold re-imaginings of the male wardrobe. Analysing the role of the media in shaping attitudes to men's fashion, Menswear Revolution studies how competing narratives of masculinity are reflected in popular discourse. Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene – and looks at the evolution of the 'ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashion professionals with close analyses of garments and advertising, Menswear Revolution provides an authoritative account of menswear design today. Highlighting its relationship to changing concepts of gender, the book provides a much-needed update to scholarship on masculinity, fashion and the body.




The Tailor


Book Description







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