Author : Philip L-f Liu
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 338 pages
File Size : 47,10 MB
Release : 1999-07-06
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9814495026
In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.
Author : J. W. Kamphuis
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 564 pages
File Size : 29,4 MB
Release : 2010
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9812834842
Accompanying CD-ROM in pocket at the back of book
Author : Philip L. F. Liu
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated
Page : 315 pages
File Size : 50,29 MB
Release : 1995
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789810218249
Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems: however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.
Author : Chiang C. Mei
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 770 pages
File Size : 20,8 MB
Release : 1989
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789971507893
The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Author : Steven A. Hughes
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 592 pages
File Size : 27,93 MB
Release : 1993
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789810215415
Laboratory physical models are a valuable tool for coastal engineers. Physical models help us to understand the complex hydrodynamic processes occurring in the nearshore zone and they provide reliable and economic engineering design solutions.This book is about the art and science of physical modeling as applied in coastal engineering. The aim of the book is to consolidate and synthesize into a single text much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has been developed worldwide.This book was written to serve as a graduate-level text for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. The first three chapters serve as an introduction to similitude and physical models, covering topics such as advantages and disadvantages of physical models, systems of units, dimensional analysis, types of similitude and various hydraulic similitude criteria applicable to coastal engineering models.Practical application of similitude principles to coastal engineering studies is covered in Chapter 4 (Hydrodynamic Models), Chapter 5 (Coastal Structure Models) and Chapter 6 (Sediment Transport Models). These chapters develop the appropriate similitude criteria, discuss inherent laboratory and scale effects and overview the technical literature pertaining to these types of models. The final two chapters focus on the related subjects of laboratory wave generation (Chapter 7) and measurement and analysis techniques (Chapter 8).
Author : Robert G Dean
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 369 pages
File Size : 34,89 MB
Release : 1991-01-23
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9814365696
This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories and the statistics of ocean waves are reviewed. The application of the water particle motions and pressure fields are applied to the calculation of wave forces on small and large objects. Extension of the linear theory results to several nonlinear wave properties is presented. Each chapter concludes with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter. An appendix provides a description of nine experiments which can be performed, with little additional equipment, in most wave tank facilities.
Author : Philip L. F. Liu
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 263 pages
File Size : 12,41 MB
Release : 1999
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9810233108
This volume consists of five excellent review papers. In the first paper, ?A Review of Coastal Wave Modeling: The Physical and Mathematical Problems?, N E Huang presents a summary of the state-of-the-art of wave modeling in deep waters. He points out several shortcomings in existing modeling approaches and expresses the urgent need for developing a statistical theory of surface waves in shallow waters. Huang believes that the statistical theory can be formulated as the soliton turbulence. He also points out other important issues in wave modeling, including the air-sea interaction processes, and the physics of the wave-current and dissipation processes. In the second paper A C Radder focuses his discussion on the ?Hamiltonian Dynamics of Water Waves?. He demonstrates that the Hamiltonian theory of surface waves can be formulated in terms of surface elevation and the velocity potential at the free surface as canonical variables. Several evolution equations, can be readily obtained. Radder also points out the need to develop a stochastic wave model in the shallow-water environment.The maximum runup is arguably the single most important parameter in the design of coastal structures and for the evaluation of the inundation potential of storm surges and tsunamis. C E Synolakis presents a thorough review of the ?Exact Solutions of Shallow-Water Wave Equations?. For a single sloping beach, the evolution and runup of solitary, dipole, N and cnoidal waves are discussed. These solutions are then extended to more practical problems.The last two papers concern the flow and sediment motions near the seafloor. In their paper, ?Boundary Layer and Sediment Dynamics Under Sea Waves?, P Blondeaux and G Vittori give an expert review of the recent contributions on the understanding of the interaction of the coherent vortex with cohesionless or partially cohesive sediments in a boundary layer. The formation and development of small-scale bedforms in the coastal regions are also discussed. Finally, in ?Wave Scour Around Structures?, B M Sumer and J Freds?e review the scouring processes around various types of structures. Many recent experimental data and theoretical developments are presented.
Author : Dano Roelvink
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 291 pages
File Size : 13,18 MB
Release : 2012
Category : Science
ISBN : 9814304255
Process-based morphodynamic modelling is one of the relatively new tools at the disposal of coastal scientists, engineers and managers. On paper, it offers the possibility to analyse morphological processes and to investigate the effects of various measures one might consider to alleviate some problems. For these to be applied in practice, a model should be relatively straightforward to set up. It should be accurate enough to represent the details of interest, it should run long enough and robustly to see the real effects happen, and the physical processes represented in such a way that the sediment generally goes in the right direction at the right rate. Next, practitioners must be able to judge if the patterns and outcomes of the model are realistic and finally, translate these colour pictures and vector plots to integrated parameters that are relevant to the client or end user. In a nutshell, this book provides an in-depth review of ways to model coastal processes, including many hands-on exercises.
Author : J?rgen Freds?e
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 406 pages
File Size : 35,27 MB
Release : 1992
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789810208400
This book treats the subject of sediment transport in the marine environment, covering transport of non-cohesive sediment by waves and current in- and outside the surf zone. It can be read independently, but a background in hydraulics and basic wave mechanics is required. It is intended for M.Sc. and Ph.D. students. The primary aim of the book is to describe the physical processes of sediment transport and how to represent them in mathematical models. It does not present a large number of different formulae for the sediment transport rates under various conditions. The book can be divided in two main parts; in the first, the relevant hydrodynamic theory is described; in the second, sediment transport and morphological development are treated. The hydrodynamic part contains a review of elementary theory for water waves, chapters on the turbulent wave boundary layer and the turbulent interaction between waves and currents, and finally, surf zone hydrodynamics and wave driven currents. The part on sediment transport introduces the basic concepts (critical bed shear stress, bed load, suspended load and sheet layer, near-bed concentration, effect of sloping bed); it treats suspended sediment in waves and current and in the surf zone, and current and wave-generated bed forms. Finally, the modelling of cross-shore and long-shore sediment transport is described together with the development, of coastal profiles and coastlines.
Author : Peter Nielsen
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 45,45 MB
Release : 2009
Category : Coast changes
ISBN : 9789812837127
This book is an introductory treatment to coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Suitable for a first course on the subject, it covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics. The book contains a substantial amount of new material. For example, the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves strongly enhances the discussion on tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects, which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The recently discovered effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models. In addition, the treatment of beach groundwater dynamics: The mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion, builds the link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling. To serve as an effective reference book for professionals, the book is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced.
