Dandyism in the Age of Revolution


Book Description

In Dandyism in the Age of Revolution, Elizabeth Amann shows that in France, England, and Spain, daring dress became a way of taking a stance toward the social and political upheaval of the period. France is the centerpiece of the story, not just because of the significance of the Revolution but also because of the speed with which both its politics and fashions shifted. Dandyism in France represented an attempt to recover a political center after the extremism of the Terror, while in England and Spain it offered a way to reflect upon the turmoil across the Channel and Pyrenees. From the Hair Powder Act, which required users of the product implications of the feather in Yankee Doodle's hat, Amann aims to revise our understanding of the origins of modern dandyism and to recover the political context from which it emerged. -- from back cover.




Dandyism in the Age of Revolution


Book Description

From the color of a politician’s tie, to exorbitantly costly haircuts, to the size of an American flag pin adorning a lapel, it’s no secret that style has political meaning. And there was no time in history when the politics of fashion was more fraught than during the French Revolution. In the 1790s almost any article of clothing could be scrutinized for evidence of one’s political affiliation. A waistcoat with seventeen buttons, for example, could be a sign of counterrevolution—a reference to Louis XVII—and earn its wearer a trip to the guillotine. In Dandyism in the Age of Revolution, Elizabeth Amann shows that in France, England, and Spain, daring dress became a way of taking a stance toward the social and political upheaval of the period. France is the centerpiece of the story, not just because of the significance of the Revolution but also because of the speed with which its politics and fashions shifted. Dandyism in France represented an attempt to recover a political center after the extremism of the Terror, while in England and Spain it offered a way to reflect upon the turmoil across the Channel and Pyrenees. From the Hair Powder Act, which required users of the product to purchase a permit, to the political implications of the feather in Yankee Doodle’s hat, Amann aims to revise our understanding of the origins of modern dandyism and to recover the political context from which it emerged.




Dandyism


Book Description

What is a dandy? Carlyle said he was a man whose "existence consists in the wearing of clothes." Isak Dinesen worshipped the freedom of the aesthete as a special Satan. But even these definitions are not enough to contain the dazzling originalities of Lord Chesterfield, Oscar Wilde, George Sand, Max Beerbohm, Baudelaire, Jean Cocteau--all of them dandies. Jules Barbey D'Aurevilly's jewel-like writing on the sensibility of dandyism has never been equaled as the study of life lived as style. His Dandyism, with a new preface by Quentin Crisp, is now back in print in America after an absence of nearly a century. The implication for today's obsession with fashion and personality make this 1845 study of the cult of the self as timely and thoughtful as ever. In the spectacles of contemporary society, the body easily becomes a cultural text. Barbey d'Aurevilly looks behind the mask of English society in the Regency period to show how life can be lived as ironic performance. In his own magnificent performance as a writer one can feel the aroma of manners exuded by the eponymous Beau Brummell who is the star of this miniature portrait of elegant hedonism and spectacular decline. "Brummell was descended from the people of the north, lymphatic and pale, like their mother the sea ...." are the words he uses to describe the Englishman. No wonder his contemporary Lord Byron said he would rather be Brummell than Napoleon. Jules Barbey d'Aurevilly himself lived the life of a dandy in an age that was beginning to define our idea of modernist sensibility. He wrote over fifty volumes of novels, short stories, criticism, and letters, one of the most provocative his study of women, The Diaboliques. He was also the model for Des Esseintes in Huysmans' decadent novel Against Nature. Barbey d'Aurevilly died in 1889, at the age of eighty, in utter poverty but surrounded by his Angora cats.--Adapted from dust jacket.




Understanding Dandyism in Three Acts


Book Description

My objective in this research was to find a usable definition for dandyism and to understand why the performance has been culturally important and adopted in different eras. I looked to performance theory and to real-life performances of dandyism by Beau Brummell, George Walker, and the zoot suiters, as well as to the literary productions and historical research of dandyism by such writers as Ellen Moers, Ian Kelly, and Barbara Webb. I was able to locate, within the life performances of these three historical subjects, three aspects of the dandy's performance that are the most salient and translatable : the dandy shocks his community with a performance of superiority, delimiting his otherwise marginal status in that community; he alienates that society by putting himself on a pedestal of self; and he entertains, maintaining a seamless mask of truth and fiction that pleases his alienated society while he, always the stoic, appears not to notice. Performance takes place and is passed on in the liminal space, or the topsy-turvy space in the margins of society, which often results from social and political ruptures. The dandyism that is born here is always revolutionary, pushing back against oppression and creating a new space of performance that opens doors to the possibility of future dandies. This holds true for the performance of the three dandyisms explored in the dissertation: Beau Brummell, George Walker, and the zoot suiters' cultural moments suffered epistemic ruptures from which the dandy performance was spawned: late eighteenth-century England was shifting as the aristocracy fell, late nineteenth-century America shifted with the rise of a newly freed black population, and the mid-twentieth century saw great changes in the United States with the Second World War and the influx of migrant workers to the cities. I found that all of my subjects were indeed performing against erasure in their societies, whether the oppression was set upon their class, race, or, in the case of the zoot suiters, age, family hierarchy, and ethnicity.




No Dandy, No Fun


Book Description

A cultural examination of the enigmatically iconic figure of the Dandy, both in history and as a figure for the future. No sooner had the first Dandy entered the scene at the beginning of the nineteenth century than he was declared dead. This enigmatic yet immediately iconic figure would remake an entrance again and again in the decades that followed. Like an elegant harbinger, Dandys arrive in times of crisis when societies are undergoing transformation. Like the hands of a clock, their silhouettes become messengers of change. But they are contours of change that carry no message. While everything is already in flames, they debate the shape of their shoes and sip oysters to combat their depression. For a long time, literature was their playing field. Marcel Duchamp transferred their attitude into the realm art. It is there that Dandyism has to this day run rampant--but as if it were an embarrassing illness to which almost no one wants to admit, yet with which many people are itching to at least flirt. This essay traces out the masked ball of the Dandy and his manner of playing with its rules up to the present day and produces a unique narrative from it: one that offers a view into the future.




21st Century Dandy


Book Description

Background; The British Council is Britain's international cultural relations organisation. Through its work in education, science, governance and the arts, the British Council aims to enhance perceptions of Britain as a creative and forward-looking nation and to challenge negative stereotypes. Art, Architecture & Design runs an international design programme of touring exhibitions, lectures, seminars and workshops with the purpose of extending the influence of British designers and encouraging the development of design elsewhere in the world. We advocate the value of design to business and government as part of our education and development activity and we contribute to the commercial promotion of British design. 21st Century Dandy will form part of the Design department programme for 2003. Target Audience; 21st Century Dandy will engage a young, general audience interested in fashion and international popular culture.The discursive content of the exhibition also aims to resonate with a specialist audience of fashion practitioners, museum curators, design journalists, the design education community (students and lecturers) - all of whom contribute to the discourse of contemporary design in which we need to sustain a profile for Britain. It will also interest garment manufacturers and retailers. The exhibition should resonate in particular in countries where menswear is equally invested with notions of national identity. The Exhibition That The Book Accompanies; Dandvism, the style and the philosophy, is uniquely British. The original dandy of 1800, George Bryan 'Beau' Brummell captured, in the turn of his cuff and the knot of his cravat, the studied irony and languor that defined his age. Brummell's preoccupation with pose and appearance was derided as the last gasp of aristocratic decadence, but in many ways he anticipated the modern era-a world of social mobility in which taste was privileged above birth and wealth.Dedicated to perfection in dress and the immaculate presentation of his body, Brummell's total control over his image finds its legacy in 21st century masculine dress styles in Britain. The tension between old and new, personal/individual and public, tradition and rebellion is just as pressing in contemporary British design language. 21st Century Dandy explores six sartorially self-conscious male types in contemporary British culture and illustrates the debt each owes to dandy philosophy. British menswear design in 2003 is at its most fertile and interesting since the Peacock Revolution in Carnaby Street in the 1960s, and it owes much to the British Iova of dressing up of ironic posturing - that Brummall practised so archetypically. The work of the designers, brands and manufacturing companies in our exhibition show how dandyism is at once an exclusive and democratic stance - democratic because it appears so easily attainable, but elusive in that so few succeed in getting it right. In reality, few British men could be easily categorised into one of our six types. The true dandy's guiding principle (individual style) rejects definition by type.But the dandy principles of exquisite beauty, quality and performance are as influential in British menswear design today as they were over 200 years ago; the cultural referentiality and material quality that characterises the best of British design could not find a better muse in the 21st century than the dandy. Section Divisions: Precis; 1. The Gentleman; A standard-bearer for quality, tradition and heritage, the Gentleman is the epitome of propriety. A Gentleman's wardrobe is detailed to perfection whilst appearing effortless. 2. Hoxton Dandy; Personifying the lifestyle/fashion/music/art nexus, the Hoxton Dandy is a media savvy neo-bohemien who parades ostentatious utilitarianism of his clothes, absinthe in hand, in the wide open spaces of Hoxton's galleries and bars. 3. Terrace Casual; The Terrace Casual's country clothes - hunting tweeds and golfing sweaters - actually




Patriots Against Fashion


Book Description

During the era of the French revolution, patriots across Europe tried to introduce a national uniform. This book, the first comparative study of national uniform schemes, discusses case studies from Austria, Bulgaria, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Turkey the United States, and Wales.




Slaves to Fashion


Book Description

Slaves to Fashion is a pioneering cultural history of the black dandy, from his emergence in Enlightenment England to his contemporary incarnations in the cosmopolitan art worlds of London and New York. It is populated by sartorial impresarios such as Julius Soubise, a freed slave who sometimes wore diamond-buckled, red-heeled shoes as he circulated through the social scene of eighteenth-century London, and Yinka Shonibare, a prominent Afro-British artist who not only styles himself as a fop but also creates ironic commentaries on black dandyism in his work. Interpreting performances and representations of black dandyism in particular cultural settings and literary and visual texts, Monica L. Miller emphasizes the importance of sartorial style to black identity formation in the Atlantic diaspora. Dandyism was initially imposed on black men in eighteenth-century England, as the Atlantic slave trade and an emerging culture of conspicuous consumption generated a vogue in dandified black servants. “Luxury slaves” tweaked and reworked their uniforms, and were soon known for their sartorial novelty and sometimes flamboyant personalities. Tracing the history of the black dandy forward to contemporary celebrity incarnations such as Andre 3000 and Sean Combs, Miller explains how black people became arbiters of style and how they have historically used the dandy’s signature tools—clothing, gesture, and wit—to break down limiting identity markers and propose new ways of fashioning political and social possibility in the black Atlantic world. With an aplomb worthy of her iconographic subject, she considers the black dandy in relation to nineteenth-century American literature and drama, W. E. B. Du Bois’s reflections on black masculinity and cultural nationalism, the modernist aesthetics of the Harlem Renaissance, and representations of black cosmopolitanism in contemporary visual art.




Yankee Doodle Dandy


Book Description

Ellis the Elephant dives back into history! In Yankee Doodle Dandy, the third installment of this New York Times bestselling series, America's favorite time traveling pachyderm is back, teaching kids (and parents!) about the American Revolution. In Sweet Land of Liberty and Land of the Pilgrims' Pride, Ellis the Elephant explored pivotal moments that shaped American history. Now Ellis is back, and eager to learn about America’s most beloved patriots and their courageous fight for independence. Traveling through time, Ellis the Elephant encounters the Sons of Liberty, Patrick Henry, Paul Revere, the Founding Fathers, Betsy Ross, and more. Authored by Callista Gingrich and illustrated by Susan Arciero, Yankee Doodle Dandy educates and entertains as Ellis the Elephant experiences the American Revolution. With beautiful illustrations and charming rhymes, Yankee Doodle Dandy is a must read for young and old alike who want to know how America became a free and independent nation.




Hair


Book Description

Bobs, beards, blondes and beyond, Hair takes us on a lavishly illustrated journey into the world of this remarkable substance and our complicated and fascinating relationship with it. Taking the key things we do to it in turn, this book captures its importance in the past and into the present: to individuals and society, for health and hygiene, in social and political challenge, in creating ideals of masculinity and womanliness, in being a vehicle for gossip, secrets and sex. Using art, film, personal diaries, newspapers, texts and images, Susan J. Vincent unearths the stories we have told about hair and why they are important. From ginger jibes in the seventeenth century to bobbed-hair suicides in the 1920s, from hippies to Roundheads, from bearded women to smooth metrosexuals, Hair shows the significance of the stuff we nurture, remove, style and tend. You will never take it for granted again.