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Fashioning Vienna

Author : Janet Stewart

Publisher : Routledge

Page : 248 pages

File Size : 21,57 MB

Release : 2013-06-17

Category : Architecture

ISBN : 1134737696

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Book Description

This book seeks, through an examination of the form and content of his texts, to extend our understanding of Adolf Loos and his role in the struggle to define the nature of modernity in Vienna at the turn of the nineteenth century. It makes extensive use of primary sources including archive material and newspaper reports, which serve to shed new light on the way in which Loos's writings are embedded in their socio-cultural context. Drawing on insights from German and Austrian studies, sociology and cultural history, this book offers a genuinely interdisciplinary approach to a figure who himself operated in an interdisciplinary fashion.



Vienna

Author : Tag Gronberg

Publisher : Peter Lang

Page : 232 pages

File Size : 39,60 MB

Release : 2007

Category : Architecture

ISBN : 9783039110469

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Book Description

In Vienna at the turn of the twentieth century the question of what it meant to be modern was a heated topic of debate. Focusing on interior design, fashion and photography, as well as on painting and architecture, this study casts fresh light on the vital role of the arts in these debates. The 'new' art and literature was crucial in defining a distinctive Viennese modernity while at the same time challenging preconceptions about modern urban life. Many artists and writers produced work that questioned and undermined oppositions between city and country, interior spaces and panoramic views, masculinity and femininity. Issues of gender and the representation of the body were particularly important in establishing professional identities for some of Vienna's most prominent figures, including the Secessionist painters Gustav Klimt and Carl Moll, designers such as Adolf Loos and Emilie Flöge, as well as the poet and feuilletonist Peter Altenberg. Intellectual life in turn-of-the-century Vienna has often been characterised as a retreat from the public sphere. This book demonstrates how - even in its ostensibly most private manifestations - Viennese Modernism involved a highly performative set of practices aimed at an international audience.



Style and Seduction

Author : Elana Shapira

Publisher : Brandeis University Press

Page : 342 pages

File Size : 12,86 MB

Release : 2016-06-07

Category : Architecture

ISBN : 161168921X

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Book Description

Explores the central role of Jewish patrons as shapers of Viennese modernism



Fashioning Vienna

Author : Janet Stewart

Publisher : Routledge

Page : 241 pages

File Size : 29,71 MB

Release : 2013-06-17

Category : Architecture

ISBN : 113473770X

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Book Description

First full-length study of Loos's texts available in English Based on original research and makes extensive use of primary sources Offers a genuinely inter-disciplinary approach



"Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria-Hungary Before the First World War "

Author : Rebecca Houze

Publisher : Routledge

Page : 470 pages

File Size : 32,82 MB

Release : 2017-07-05

Category : Art

ISBN : 1351546880

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Book Description

Filling a critical gap in Vienna 1900 studies, this book offers a new reading of fin-de-si?e culture in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy by looking at the unusual and widespread preoccupation with embroidery, fabrics, clothing, and fashion - both literally and metaphorically. The author resurrects lesser known critics, practitioners, and curators from obscurity, while also discussing the textile interests of better known figures, notably Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl. Spanning the 50-year life of the Dual Monarchy, this study uncovers new territory in the history of art history, insists on the crucial place of women within modernism, and broadens the cultural history of Habsburg Central Europe by revealing the complex relationships among art history, women, and Austria-Hungary. Rebecca Houze surveys a wide range of materials, from craft and folk art to industrial design, and includes overlooked sources-from fashion magazines to World's Fair maps, from exhibition catalogues to museum lectures, from feminist journals to ethnographic collections. Restoring women to their place at the intersection of intellectual and artistic debates of the time, this book weaves together discourses of the academic, scientific, and commercial design communities with middle-class life as expressed through popular culture.



The Viennese Café and Fin-de-Siècle Culture

Author : Charlotte Ashby

Publisher : Berghahn Books

Page : 256 pages

File Size : 40,25 MB

Release : 2013-01-01

Category : History

ISBN : 0857457659

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Book Description

The Viennese café was a key site of urban modernity around 1900. In the rapidly growing city it functioned simultaneously as home and workplace, affording opportunities for both leisure and intellectual exchange. This volume explores the nature and function of the coffeehouse in the social, cultural, and political world of fin-de-siècle Vienna. Just as the café served as a creative meeting place within the city, so this volume initiates conversations between different disciplines focusing on Vienna at the beginning of the twentieth century. Contributions are drawn from the fields of social and cultural history, literary studies, Jewish studies and art, and architectural and design history. A fresh perspective is also provided by a selection of comparative articles exploring coffeehouse culture elsewhere in Eastern Europe.



Jews in Suits

Author : Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum

Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing

Page : 297 pages

File Size : 24,78 MB

Release : 2023-05-04

Category : Social Science

ISBN : 1350244228

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Book Description

Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods – both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists – all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched. Jews in Suits uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, 'ego-documents', photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of 'the Jew'. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self.



House of Fashion

Author : Jess Berry

Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing

Page : 346 pages

File Size : 13,17 MB

Release : 2018-07-12

Category : Design

ISBN : 1474283381

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Book Description

Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.



The Vienna School of Art History

Author : Matthew Rampley

Publisher : Penn State Press

Page : 293 pages

File Size : 30,13 MB

Release : 2015-06-26

Category : Art

ISBN : 0271062606

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Book Description

Matthew Rampley’s The Vienna School of Art History is the first book in over seventy-five years to study in depth and in context the practices of art history from 1847, the year the first teaching position in the discipline was created, to 1918, the collapse of Austria-Hungary. It traces the emergence of art history as a discipline, the establishment of norms of scholarly inquiry, and the involvement of art historians in wider debates about the cultural and political identity of the monarchy. The so-called Vienna School plays the central role in the study, but Rampley also examines the formation of art history elsewhere in Austria-Hungary. Located in the Habsburg imperial capital, Vienna art historians frequently became entangled in debates that were of importance to art historians elsewhere in the Empire, and Rampley pays particular attention to these areas of overlapping interest. He also analyzes the methodological innovations for which the Vienna School was well known. Rampley focuses most fully, however, on the larger political and ideological context of the practice of art history—particularly the way in which art-historical debates served as proxies for wider arguments over the political, social, and cultural life of the Habsburg Empire.



Design Dialogue: Jews, Culture and Viennesse Modernism

Author : Elana Shapira

Publisher : Böhlau Wien

Page : 477 pages

File Size : 22,40 MB

Release : 2018-10-01

Category : Art

ISBN : 3205206371

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Book Description

The Design Dialogue anthology is a remarkable exploration of the decisive role of Jewish patrons, professionals, architects, designers and authors in shaping modern Viennese architecture, design, and material culture. Leading cultural historians, museum curators, art historians, and architects present cutting edge research examining how famous and less known protagonists created new cultural languages, identifications and networks, engaged in social debates, and contributed to the cultural renewal of Vienna, a major capital in Central Europe, between 1800 and 1938.