Lectures on the Theory of Water Waves


Book Description

In the summer of 2014 leading experts in the theory of water waves gathered at the Newton Institute for Mathematical Sciences in Cambridge for four weeks of research interaction. A cross-section of those experts was invited to give introductory-level talks on active topics. This book is a compilation of those talks and illustrates the diversity, intensity, and progress of current research in this area. The key themes that emerge are numerical methods for analysis, stability and simulation of water waves, transform methods, rigorous analysis of model equations, three-dimensionality of water waves, variational principles, shallow water hydrodynamics, the role of deterministic and random bottom topography, and modulation equations. This book is an ideal introduction for PhD students and researchers looking for a research project. It may also be used as a supplementary text for advanced courses in mathematics or fluid dynamics.




Lectures on the Theory of Water Waves


Book Description

A range of experts contribute introductory-level lectures on active topics in the theory of water waves.







Water Wave Kinematics


Book Description

Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give significant differences in the calculated responses of structures. In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the response of structures to have their views from a structural engineering point of view on what information is really needed on water wave kinematics.




Nonlinear Water Waves with Applications to Wave-Current Interactions and Tsunamis


Book Description

This overview of some of the main results and recent developments in nonlinear water waves presents fundamental aspects of the field and discusses several important topics of current research interest. It contains selected information about water-wave motion for which advanced mathematical study can be pursued, enabling readers to derive conclusions that explain observed phenomena to the greatest extent possible. The author discusses the underlying physical factors of such waves and explores the physical relevance of the mathematical results that are presented. The material is an expanded version of the author's lectures delivered at the NSF-CBMS Regional Research Conference in the Mathematical Sciences organized by the Mathematics Department of the University of Texas-Pan American in 2010.




Nonlinear Water Waves


Book Description

Wave motion in water is one of the most striking observable phenomena in nature. Throughout the twentieth century, development of the linearized theory of wave motion in fluids and hydrodynamic stability has been steady and significant. In the last three decades there have been remarkable developments in nonlinear dispersive waves in general, nonlinear water waves in particular, and nonlinear instability phenomena. New solutions are now available for waves modulatedin both space and time, which exhibit new phenomena as diverse as solitons, resonant interactions, side-band instability, and wave-breaking. Other achievements include the discovery of soliton interactions, and the Inverse Scattering Transform method forfinding the explicit exact solution for several canonical nonlinear partial differential equations. This monograph is the first to summarize the research on nonlinear wave phenomena over the past three decades, and it also presents numerous applications in physics, geophysics, and engineering.




Fluid Waves


Book Description

This book derives the mathematical basis for the most-encountered waves in fluids in science and engineering. It gives professionals in important occupations such as maritime engineering, climate science, urban noise control, and medical diagnostics the key formulae needed for calculations. The book begins with the basis of fluid dynamics and subsequent chapters cover surface gravity waves, sound waves, internal gravity waves, waves in rotating fluids, and introduce some nonlinear wave phenomena. Basic phenomena common to all fluid waves such as refraction are detailed. Thereafter, specialized application chapters describe specific contemporary problems. All concepts are supported by narrative examples, illustrations, and problems. FEATURES • Explains the basis of wave mechanics in fluid systems. • Provides tools for the analysis of water waves, sound waves, internal gravity waves, rotating fluid waves and some nonlinear wave phenomena, together with example problems. • Includes comprehensible mathematical derivations at the expense of fewer theoretical topics. • Reviews cases describable by linear theory and cases requiring nonlinear and wave-interaction theories. This book is suitable for senior undergraduates, graduate students and researchers in Fluid Mechanics, Applied Mathematics, Meteorology, Physical Oceanography, and in Biomedical, Civil, Chemical, Environmental, Mechanical, and Maritime Engineering.




Fundamentals of Physics I


Book Description

A beloved introductory physics textbook, now including exercises and an answer key, explains the concepts essential for thorough scientific understanding In this concise book, R. Shankar, a well-known physicist and contagiously enthusiastic educator, explains the essential concepts of Newtonian mechanics, special relativity, waves, fluids, thermodynamics, and statistical mechanics. Now in an expanded edition—complete with problem sets and answers for course use or self-study—this work provides an ideal introduction for college-level students of physics, chemistry, and engineering; for AP Physics students; and for general readers interested in advances in the sciences. The book begins at the simplest level, develops the basics, and reinforces fundamentals, ensuring a solid foundation in the principles and methods of physics.




Wave Turbulence


Book Description

Wave Turbulence refers to the statistical theory of weakly nonlinear dispersive waves. There is a wide and growing spectrum of physical applications, ranging from sea waves, to plasma waves, to superfluid turbulence, to nonlinear optics and Bose-Einstein condensates. Beyond the fundamentals the book thus also covers new developments such as the interaction of random waves with coherent structures (vortices, solitons, wave breaks), inverse cascades leading to condensation and the transitions between weak and strong turbulence, turbulence intermittency as well as finite system size effects, such as “frozen” turbulence, discrete wave resonances and avalanche-type energy cascades. This book is an outgrow of several lectures courses held by the author and, as a result, written and structured rather as a graduate text than a monograph, with many exercises and solutions offered along the way. The present compact description primarily addresses students and non-specialist researchers wishing to enter and work in this field.




Nonlinear Water Waves


Book Description

The motion of water is governed by a set of mathematical equations which are extremely complicated and intractable. This is not surprising when one considers the highly diverse and intricate physical phenomena which may be exhibited by a given body of water. Recent mathematical advances have enabled researchers to make major progress in this field, reflected in the topics featured in this volume. Cutting-edge techniques and tools from mathematical analysis have generated strong rigorous results concerning the qualitative and quantitative physical properties of solutions of the governing equations. Furthermore, accurate numerical computations of fully-nonlinear steady and unsteady water waves in two and three dimensions have contributed to the discovery of new types of waves. Model equations have been derived in the long-wave and modulational regime using Hamiltonian formulations and solved numerically. This book brings together interdisciplinary researchers working in the field of nonlinear water waves, whose contributions range from survey articles to new research results which address a variety of aspects in nonlinear water waves. It is motivated by a workshop which was organised at the Erwin Schrödinger International Institute for Mathematics and Physics in Vienna, November 27-December 7, 2017. The key aim of the workshop was to describe, and foster, new approaches to research in this field. This is reflected in the contents of this book, which is aimed to stimulate both experienced researchers and students alike.