Reading Marie al-Khazen’s Photographs


Book Description

The Lebanese photographer Marie al-Khazen seized every opportunity to use her camera during the years that she was active between 1920 and 1940. She not only documented her travels around tourist sites in Lebanon but also sought creative experimentation with her camera by staging scenes, manipulating shadows, and superimposing negatives to produce different effects in her prints. Within her photographs, bedouins and European friends, peasants and landlords, men and women comfortably share the same space. Her photographs include an intriguing collection portraying her family and friends living their everyday lives in 1920s and '30s Zgharta, a village in the north of Lebanon. Yasmine Nachabe Taan explores these photographs, emphasizing the ways in which notions of gender and class are inscribed within them and revealing how they are charged with symbols of women's emancipation to today's viewers, through women's presence as individuals, separate from family restrictions of that time. Images in which women are depicted smoking cigarettes, driving cars, riding horses, and accompanying men on hunting trips counteract the common ways in which women were portrayed in contemporary Lebanon.




Reading Marie al-Khazen’s Photographs


Book Description

The Lebanese photographer Marie al-Khazen seized every opportunity to use her camera during the years that she was active between 1920 and 1940. She not only documented her travels around tourist sites in Lebanon but also sought creative experimentation with her camera by staging scenes, manipulating shadows, and superimposing negatives to produce different effects in her prints. Within her photographs, bedouins and European friends, peasants and landlords, men and women comfortably share the same space. Her photographs include an intriguing collection portraying her family and friends living their everyday lives in 1920s and '30s Zgharta, a village in the north of Lebanon. Yasmine Nachabe Taan explores these photographs, emphasizing the ways in which notions of gender and class are inscribed within them and revealing how they are charged with symbols of women's emancipation to today's viewers, through women's presence as individuals, separate from family restrictions of that time. Images in which women are depicted smoking cigarettes, driving cars, riding horses, and accompanying men on hunting trips counteract the common ways in which women were portrayed in contemporary Lebanon.




Japanese Fashion Designers


Book Description

Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.




Skin Crafts


Book Description

Skin Crafts discusses multiple artists from global contexts who employ craft materials in works that address historical and contemporary violence. These artists are deliberately embracing the fragility of textiles and ceramics to evoke the vulnerability of human skin and - in so doing - are demanding visceral responses from viewers. Drawing on a range of theories including affect theory, material feminism, skin studies, phenomenology and global art history, the book illuminates the various ways in which artists are harnessing the affective power of craft materials to address and cope with violence. Artists from Mexico, Africa, China, the Netherlands and Indigenous artists based in the unceded territory known as Canada are examined in relation to one another to illuminate the connections and differences across their bodies of work. Skin Crafts interrogates ongoing material violence towards women and marginalized others, and demonstrates the power of contemporary art to force viewers and scholars into facing their ethical responsibilities as human beings.




Body Style


Book Description

"Body Style reveals the subcultural body as a site for understanding subcultural identity, resistance, agency and fashion. Analyzed, theorized, politicized, and sensationalized, the subcultural body functions as a framework where individuals build a sense of self and subcultural identity. Drawing on specific subcultural examples and interviews with subculture members, Body Style explores the subcultural body and its style within global culture. Body Style is the result of over eleven years of research examining these intersections within specific urban subcultures, including Urban Tribalists, Modern Primitives, Punks, Cybers, Industrials, Skates, and others. Divided into three main sections on subcultural body history, subcultural body identity and subcultural body styles, this book will be of particular interest to students of dress and fashion as well as those coming to subculture from sociology and cultural studies"--




Arthrogryposis


Book Description

The term arthrogryposis describes a range of congenital contractures that lead to childhood deformities. It encompasses a number of syndromes and sporadic deformities that are rare individually but collectively are not uncommon. Yet, the existing medical literature on arthrogryposis is sparse and often confusing. The aim of this book is to provide individuals affected with arthrogryposis, their families, and health care professionals with a helpful guide to better understand the condition and its therapy. With this goal in mind, the editors have taken great care to ensure that the presentation of complex clinical information is at once scientifically accurate, patient oriented, and accessible to readers without a medical background. The book is authored primarily by members of the medical staff of the Arthrogryposis Clinic at Children's Hospital and Medical Center in Seattle, Washington, one of the leading teams in the management of the condition, and will be an invaluable resource for both health care professionals and families of affected individuals.




Fashion, Performance, and Performativity


Book Description

In the first comprehensive study of the interactions between fashion, performance and performativity, a group of international experts explore fashion as the ideal 'complex space' – or, in other words, the ideal space where performance and performativity come together, according to the works of seminal theorists Eve Kosofsky Sedgwick and Andrew Parker. Bringing together western and non-western, historical and contemporary case studies and theories, the book explores the magazines, photography, exhibitions, global colonial divides, digital media, and more, which have become key markers of the fashion industry as we know it today. Using existing literature as a springboard and incorporating perspectives from fashion studies, art history, media studies and gender studies, as well as from artists and practitioners, Fashion, Performance, and Performativity is an innovative and essential work for students, scholars and practitioners across multiple disciplines.




Avedon Advertising


Book Description

The first survey of Richard Avedon's influential advertising work Richard Avedon was one of the most sought-after and influential advertising photographers in America from the 1940s to the beginning of the 21st century, creating work that exemplified Madison Avenue at the height of its influence in world culture. Working with a talented cadre of models, copy writers, and art directors, Avedon made images that enticed consumers to embrace the new, especially in the areas of fashion and beauty, with campaigns for Revlon, Chanel, Calvin Klein, Dior, and Versace, among many others. Avedon Advertising tells this story, reproducing memorable ads that range from the buoyant 1940s and 1950s, when post-war prosperity opened up new experiences to consumers; through the explosive '60s; and into the era defined by celebrity culture and global brand awareness.




Basics Fashion Design 09: Designing Accessories


Book Description

Long since regarded as an inessential object that simply adds to the beauty, convenience or effectiveness of an outfit, accessories are now considered key items in a fashion collection and as stand-alone pieces worthy of our undivided attention. Basics Fashion Design 09: Designing Accessories is filled with important information that any designer will need to know, examining four key items from concept to production: the bag, footwear, jewellery and millinery. The key accessories are dissected to clearly display the core components, giving a clear view of how each connects. The design process is explored by looking at creative product development, from gathering research to generating ideas into key products, construction techniques and the essential tools of the trade used in modern accessories design. 2D pattern and 3D modelling techniques are described in detail with explanations of traditional and rapid prototyping tools in use today. Bespoke and commercial production is examined and creative solutions to technical challenges are presented. Designing Accessories also explores specialist finishing techniques, such as hand-finishing and machine embellishment and contains descriptions of contemporary techniques that break new boundaries in accessories design. A detailed explanation of small accessories, essential to the accessories designer, will broaden the reader's knowledge and provide them with the dexterity of skills to enter the fashion industry. This title is filled with images of beautiful accessories to inspire young designers. It is essential reading for fashion students and all those interested in accessories design. The book also includes a whole chapter on small accessories (eyewear, scarves, ties, wristwatches, belts and gloves).




A Cultural History of Hair in the Age of Enlightenment


Book Description

Hair, or lack of it, is one the most significant identifiers of individuals in any society. In Antiquity, the power of hair to send a series of social messages was no different. This volume covers nearly a thousand years of history, from Archaic Greece to the end of the Roman Empire, concentrating on what is now Europe, North Africa, and the Near East. Among the key issues identified by its authors is the recognition that in any given society male and female hair tend to be opposites (when male hair is generally short, women's is long); that hair is a marker of age and stage of life (children and young people have longer, less confined hairstyles; adult hair is far more controlled); hair can be used to identify the 'other' in terms of race and ethnicity but also those who stand outside social norms such as witches and mad women. The chapters in A Cultural History of Hair in Antiquity cover the following topics: religion and ritualized belief, self and society, fashion and adornment, production and practice, health and hygiene, gender and sexuality, race and ethnicity, class and social status, and cultural representations.