The Competition of Fibres


Book Description

The central issues discussed in this new collected work in the highly successful ancient textiles series are the relationships between fiber resources and availability on the one hand and the ways those resources were exploited to produce textiles on the other. Technological and economic practices - for example, the strategies by which raw materials were acquired and prepared - in the production of textiles play a major role in the papers collected here. Contributions investigate the beginnings of wool use in western Asia and southeastern Europe. The importance of wool in considerations of early textiles is due to at least two factors. First, both wild as well as some domesticated sheep are characterized by a hairy rather than a woolly coat. This raises the question of when and where woolly sheep emerged, a question that has not up to now been resolvable by genetic or other biological analyses. Second, wool as a fiber has played a major role both economically and socially in both western Asian and European societies from as early as the 3rd millennium BCE in Mesopotamia, and it continues to do so, in different ways, up to the modern day. Despite the importance of wool as a fiber resource contributors demonstrate clearly that its development and use can only be properly addressed in the context of a consideration of other fibers, both plant and animal. Only within a framework that takes into account historically and regionally variable strategies of procurement, processing, and the products of different types of fibers is it possible to gain real insights into the changing roles played by fibers and textiles in the lives of people in different places and times in the past. With relatively rare, albeit sometimes spectacular exceptions, archaeological contexts offer only poor conditions of preservation for textiles. As a result, archaeologists are dependent on indirect or proxy indicators such as textile tools (e.g., loom weights, spindle whorls) and the analysis of faunal remains to explore a range of such proxies and methods by which they may be analyzed and evaluated in order to contribute to an understanding of fiber and textile production and use in the past.




The Competition of Fibres


Book Description

The central issues discussed in this new collected work in the highly successful ancient textiles series are the relationships between fiber resources and availability on the one hand and the ways those resources were exploited to produce textiles on the other. Technological and economic practices - for example, the strategies by which raw materials were acquired and prepared - in the production of textiles play a major role in the papers collected here. Contributions investigate the beginnings of wool use in western Asia and southeastern Europe. The importance of wool in considerations of early textiles is due to at least two factors. First, both wild as well as some domesticated sheep are characterized by a hairy rather than a woolly coat. This raises the question of when and where woolly sheep emerged, a question that has not up to now been resolvable by genetic or other biological analyses. Second, wool as a fiber has played a major role both economically and socially in both western Asian and European societies from as early as the 3rd millennium BCE in Mesopotamia, and it continues to do so, in different ways, up to the modern day. Despite the importance of wool as a fiber resource contributors demonstrate clearly that its development and use can only be properly addressed in the context of a consideration of other fibers, both plant and animal. Only within a framework that takes into account historically and regionally variable strategies of procurement, processing, and the products of different types of fibers is it possible to gain real insights into the changing roles played by fibers and textiles in the lives of people in different places and times in the past. With relatively rare, albeit sometimes spectacular exceptions, archaeological contexts offer only poor conditions of preservation for textiles. As a result, archaeologists are dependent on indirect or proxy indicators such as textile tools (e.g., loom weights, spindle whorls) and the analysis of faunal remains to explore a range of such proxies and methods by which they may be analyzed and evaluated in order to contribute to an understanding of fiber and textile production and use in the past.




Sustainable Fibres and Textiles


Book Description

Sustainable Fibres and Textiles provides a whole-lifecycle approach to the subject of sustainable textiles, from fiber production, through manufacturing and low-energy care and recycling. The scientific, industrial, regulatory and social aspects of this lifecycle are explored by an expert author team who bring global perspectives to this important subject. The first part of the book provides detailed coverage of the sustainable production of textiles, with chapters devoted to each of the main fiber types, including new biosynthetic fibers, such as textiles produced from Polylactic Acid (PLA). The second part examines sustainable production methods, focusing on low carbon production technologies and sustainable, low-pollution methods of processing and dyeing fabrics. The final sections explore the benefits of textiles designed to enable low-energy fabric care via both finishes used to treat the fabric and better care labelling. Re-use and recycling options are also covered, as are ethical aspects, such as fair trade fabrics. - Presents an integrated understanding of sustainability through the whole supply-chain – from agriculture, through manufacturing and fabric care, to recycling - Teachers users how to make optimal choices of fiber and manufacturing technologies to achieve the sustainable production of high-quality apparel and other textile products - Provides a wider understanding of emerging regulatory frameworks that will shape the future of sustainable textiles




African Affairs


Book Description










The Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres


Book Description

PREFACE: IN the present volume, dealing with the Chemical Technology of the Textile Fibres except as concerns the dye-stuffs, which will be treated in a separate work, the author has been obliged to con- dense the available matter as much as possible, in order to preserve the form of a text-book. Nevertheless, it seemed necessary, in certain cases, in the interests of the book, to give definite data and an exact description of individual processes. In such instances the details have been gathered exclusively either from the authors personal experience or from reliable sources. The most important part of the book is the chapter treating of dyeing, whilst, on the other hand, the subject of printing had to be dealt with in a more general fashion, the materials being less suitable for treatment in text-book style. The author thinks it desirable to point out that in the present work an attempt has been made to completely separate the chemical and mechanical technology of the subject, a standpoint he considers justified by the extensive area occupied by each of these branches. Hence only a few sketches of apparatus have been given and the methods of dressing the finished goods have been described very briefly, since they almost entirely belong to the domain of mechanical technology. ...GEOEG VON GEOEGIEVICS. Artificial Fibres . Mineral, . Vegetable Cellulose..... Cotton . . . . Bombax Cotton .... Vegetable Silk .... ..... Flax .- . . ..... Hemp Jute Ramie, Rhea, China Grass, Nettle Fibre . Contents include: CHAPTER L THE TEXTILE FIBRES Distinguishing Tests for the Various Fibres Animal Fibres .... Silk . . Animal Hairs . Sheeps Wool . Goat Wool and Camel Wool Artificial Wool Wool Substitutes Conditioning CHAPTER II. WASHING, BLEACHING, CARBONISING Washing and ..... Bleaching Definition Bleaching Agents ... Cotton-Bleaching . . ...... . . . PAGE iii 1 2 2 3 8 12 12 12 16 17 19 20 2-2 23 34 35 45 46 19 50 53 viii CONTENTS Linen-Bleaching . . . Ramie-Bleaching... Hemp-Bleaching... Jute-Bleaching . 76 Scouring and Bleaching Silk 77 Washing and Bleaching Wool ... 80 Blueing or White 86 Dyeing... Carbonising .... 87 CHAPTER III. MORDANTS AND MORDANTING Mordants..... 95 Mordanting Wool . ... 96 Mordanting Silk . . . . . . .98 Mordanting Cotton ....... 99 Alumina Mordants . . . . . . .102 Mordants........ Iron Mordants . . . . . . .,106 ........ Chrome 108 Tin Mordants 112 Copper and other Mordants . . . . . ...... .114 The Fixing Agents Acid Mordants 115 Tannic Acids ... . Oleic Acids . . . PAGE . . . . .116 - . . . . .122 CHAPTER IV. DYEING 1. Theory of Colour Combination of Colours Dyeing to Pattern . . 125 2. Theory of Dyeing . . . . . . 130 3. Classification of Dye-Stuffs Methods of Dyeing . . . ., 138 Application of Acid Dye-Stuffs . . . . Application of Basic v . Dye-Stuffs ., . . .- 143 Application of Direct or Substantive Cotton Dyes...... . Dyes . . 146 Application of the Mordant 154 Dyeing with Cochineal . . . . . .160 Dyeing with Catechu....... 178 Black and Blue Dyeings with Logwood on Wool . . . 163 Turkey-Red Dyeing . .. . -. . .172 Black-Dyeing Cotton with Logwood..... 180 ...




Joint Research and Development under US Antitrust and EU Competition Law


Book Description

This fascinating new book dissects, from a Competition law perspective, how Research and Development collaborations operate under both US and EU antitrust law. Analyzing the evolution of this innovation landscape from the 1970s to the present day, Blom







Journal of the Society of Arts


Book Description