Alpine Climbing


Book Description

* For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture at higher altitudes* Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)* Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as techniqueThis intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude - approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery - and safety - lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process. Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying,rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.




Cascade Alpine Guide; Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass


Book Description

* Cascades climbing routes -- the guidebooks relied on for more than 25 years * Northwest climbing legend Fred Beckey has summited and explored hundreds of Cascade peaks * Hand-drawn maps and photos with route overlays, as well as approach information Volume II in the classic Cascade Alpine Guide series features expert information on more than 300 climbing and high routes in the Cascades. This volume covers the middle of the Cascade Range, from the foothills east of Puget Sound to Lake Chelan. You'll find geographical, historical, and geological overviews of the majestic mid-Cascade region, plus important tips on safety and backcountry usage. Legendary author/climber Fred Beckey includes technical and grade information for each route to make clear exactly what type of climb you are embarking upon.




Alpine Mountaineering


Book Description

This is a complete introduction to Alpine mountaineering. If you are planning your first trip to the Alps or anxious to improve on your performance on previous trips, you need this book. Even seasoned alpinists will benefit from Bruce's clarity and depth of experience.Everything you need to know is here and none of the issues are ducked, from dealing with hut guardians to moving roped together. The first part of the book deals with the knowledge and techniques you will need. The second part consists of a choice of good routes to help you gain experience. In this guidebook-style section the route length is included together with the area, where to stay, access, map and kit requirements and the full route descriptions.The chapters are Going Alpine; About the Alps; Objective Dangers; Weather; Kit; Technical Equipment; Alpine Movement; Protecting Yourself; Glacier Travel; Speed vs Security; Navigation; Rescue; Via Ferrata; Planning an Alpine Trip; Am I Ready?; Guidebook.




Beyond the Mountain


Book Description

What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? A lot of fundraising; traveling in some of the world's most dangerous countries; enduring cold bivouacs, searing lungs, and a cloudy mind when you can least afford one. It means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. Steve House built his reputation on ascents throughout the Alps, Canada, Alaska, the Karakoram and the Himalaya that have expanded possibilities of style, speed, and difficulty. In 2005 Steve and alpinist Vince Anderson pioneered a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,600-foot Nanga Parbat, which had never before been climbed in alpine style. It was the third ascent of the face and the achievement earned Steveand Vince the first Piolet d"or (Golden Ice Axe) awarded to North Americans. Steve is an accomplished and spellbinding storyteller in the tradition of Maurice Herzog and Lionel Terray. Beyond the Mountain is a gripping read destined to be a mountain classic. And it




Training for the Uphill Athlete


Book Description

Presents training principles for the multisport mountain athlete who regularly participates in a mix of distance running, ski mountaineering, and other endurance sports that require optimum fitness and customized strength




Extreme Alpinism


Book Description

* The book that launched a renaissance in climbing technique and remains relevant today * Techniques and mental skills needed to climb at a more challenging level * Illustrated with full-color photos throughout Big, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers. Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.




Accidents in North American Climbing 2020


Book Description

THE CLIFFS AND MOUNTAINS WE LOVE CAN BE UNFORGIVING. READ ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBING TO LEARN FROM THE MISTAKES OF OTHERS, SO YOU CAN CLIMB AGAIN TOMORROW. Published annually by the American Alpine Club, Accidents in North American Climbing reports on each year’s most significant and educational climbing accidents. In each case, rangers, rescuers, and other experts analyze what went wrong, helping climbers prevent or survive similar situations in the future. In-depth articles cover more topics, including avalanche safety for mountaineers and ice climbers.







The Mountain Within


Book Description

One of the best mountaineers of our generation ?nally reveals the details of his many exciting extreme alpine ascents—ascents in which his only equipment is a pair of shoes and a small bag for holding chalk. Clinging to the crevasses in mountain walls, with muscles bulging as he makes his free ascent, Huber has become one of the world’s most recognized and photographed extreme alpine climbers. Along with many other legendary ascents detailed here, he and his brother set a new record of 2 hours and 46 minutes on El Capitan, The Nose, Yosemite Park in the Fall of 2007—a climb that usually takes three days. When he free-soloed the Kommunist’s famous peaks, Alexander Huber declared, “Why? For me, it is the search for my limits. On the other side, I am aware that the time is limited.” With major corporate sponsors like Adidas and Atmoic, this is a fascinating insight into one of the world’s best mountaineers.




Accidents in North American Climbing 2021


Book Description

Detailed accounts and in-depth analysis of rock climbing, mountaineering, and ski mountaineering accidents and rescues. * Beginners and expert climbers alike rely on these stories and analysis to become safer climbers * Articles written by certified guides and rescue professionals offer focused how-to advice throughout the book. This year, Know the Ropes describes the best practices for cleaning singlepitch climbs.Since 1948, the American Alpine Club has documented the year's most teachable climbing accidents, providing invaluable lessons to climbers. In Accidents in North American Climbing, each incident is thoroughly analyzed to help climbers avoid similar mistakes in the future. In our Know the Ropes and Essentials sections, professional guides and other experts offer in-depth instruction and copious illustration to help prevent avoidable accidents.