Broken Waves


Book Description

“[A] magisterial history of twentieth-century Fiji.... The historical research is thorough and scrupulous, and the presentation is lucid. Lal brings together a wealth of information, much of it previously unavailable and the earlier available materials often reframed in thought-provoking ways.... Perhaps its greatest strength is that is presents the history of modern Fiji as very complicated and multifaceted.” —The Contemporary Pacific Pacific Islands Monograph Series No.11 Published in association with the Center for Pacific Islands Studies, University of Hawai‘i




Technical Report CERC


Book Description




Piers, Jetties and Related Structures Exposed to Waves


Book Description

Piers, Jetties and Related Structures Exposed to Waves, Second Edition delivers guidelines for engineers to analyse and optimise pier and jetty designs. It is essential reading for maritime designers and consultants tasked with analysing, designing and constructing piers and jetties.




Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction


Book Description

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields.It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view.The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail.The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text.An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.




Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (2nd Edition)


Book Description

New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index.




Piers, Jetties and Related Structures Exposed to Waves


Book Description

Offers guidance on hydraulic design, including design wave conditions, prediction of scour and vessel mooring loads, and methods for the prediction of wave loading, including forces on the underside of jetty decks. This book also provides guidance on design principles and design wave loads for exposed jetty structures.




Grey Skies, Green Waves


Book Description

Tom Anderson has always loved surfing – anywhere except the UK. But a chance encounter leads him to a series of adventures on home surf... As he visits the popular haunts and secret gems of British surfing he rekindles his love affair with the freezing fun that is surfing the North Atlantic.







The Science of Ocean Waves


Book Description

An unparalleled introduction to the amazing world of ocean waves. Outstanding Academic Title, Choice "Powerful ocean waves fascinate the public, and they have made a lot of news lately." With that indisputable observation, scientist J. B. Zirker takes off on a whirlwind tour of the world of waves—from the “ordinary” waves that constantly churn the sea to the rogues or freaks that can rise up seemingly from nowhere to heights of 20 meters or more . . . and everything in between. Addressing questions most ocean visitors have had and offering new ones for our consideration, The Science of Ocean Waves explains in accessible language how waves are formed, how they move, how they become huge and destructive, and how they're being studied now for clues that will help us plan for the future. Devoting chapters to wind, tides, currents, breakers, tsunamis, forecasting, renewable energy, and El Niño—as well as discussing the gentler properties of ocean waves which inspire us and offer opportunities for relaxation and recreation—Zirker explores the physical factors that create waves. Drawing on some of the recent storms that have devastated entire regions—such as Hurricane Katrina, the tsunami launched by the 2004 Sumatran earthquake, and the great tsunami that crushed the shore of Japan in 2011—Zirker explains the forces that cause these monster waves and reveals the toll they take on human lives. Enhanced by dozens of illustrations and a comprehensive glossary, The Science of Ocean Waves will fascinate anyone curious about the science behind the headlines. Praise for J. B. Zirker “Scientists know their stuff but are rarely good storytellers, whereas good storytellers rarely possess the necessary sweeping command of a scientific discipline. Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible.”—New Scientist




Fluid Waves


Book Description

This book derives the mathematical basis for the most-encountered waves in fluids in science and engineering. It gives professionals in important occupations such as maritime engineering, climate science, urban noise control, and medical diagnostics the key formulae needed for calculations. The book begins with the basis of fluid dynamics and subsequent chapters cover surface gravity waves, sound waves, internal gravity waves, waves in rotating fluids, and introduce some nonlinear wave phenomena. Basic phenomena common to all fluid waves such as refraction are detailed. Thereafter, specialized application chapters describe specific contemporary problems. All concepts are supported by narrative examples, illustrations, and problems. FEATURES • Explains the basis of wave mechanics in fluid systems. • Provides tools for the analysis of water waves, sound waves, internal gravity waves, rotating fluid waves and some nonlinear wave phenomena, together with example problems. • Includes comprehensible mathematical derivations at the expense of fewer theoretical topics. • Reviews cases describable by linear theory and cases requiring nonlinear and wave-interaction theories. This book is suitable for senior undergraduates, graduate students and researchers in Fluid Mechanics, Applied Mathematics, Meteorology, Physical Oceanography, and in Biomedical, Civil, Chemical, Environmental, Mechanical, and Maritime Engineering.