Directional Ocean Wave Spectra


Book Description

Das Buch enthält insgesamt 33 Vorträge, die anlässlich des Symposiums "Measuring, Modeling, Predicting, and Applying Directional Ocean Wave Spectra" gehalten wurden, welches von 19890418 bis 19890420 am Applied Physics Laboratory der Johns Hopkins Universität stattfand. Das Symposium war den Ergebnissen des Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX) gewidmet, welches mit internationaler Beteiligung unter Einsatz von zwei Schiffen, zwei Radar- Fernerkundungsflugzeugen sowie Radar-Fernerkundungssatelliten im März 1987 in der Labradorsee durchgeführt wurde. Ziel war die Bestimmung von richtungsbezogenen Meereswellenspektren. Nach zwei einführenden Vorträgen in das Experiment LEWEX sowie in die Bedeutung der Wellenspektren widmen sich die übrigen Fachbeiträge folgenden Themen: Physik von Wind und Wellen (Wind-Wave Physics); Seegangsverhalten und Messungen an der Meeresoberfläche (Seakeeping and Surface Measurement); Luftgestützte und weltraumgestützte Radarmessungen (Air and Space Measurement); Numerische Modellrechnungen (Numerical Model Estimates); Zukünftiger Forschungsbedarf (Future Directions). 300 der während LEWEX gemessenen 2000 Wellenspektren werden vorgestellt und verglichen.




Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering


Book Description

Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems: however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.




The Directional Analysis of Ocean Waves


Book Description

An introductory discussion of the mathematics behind the directional analysis of ocean waves is presented. There is sufficient detail for a reader interested in applying the methods; further, the report can serve as an entry into the theory. The presentation is basically tutorial but does require a reasonably advanced mathematical background. Results of a program for the measurement of directional ocean wave bottom pressure spectra are included as an appendix. This second edition makes corrections to the first and adds some details of an iterative directional analysis method. (Author).







Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters


Book Description

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.




Air-Sea Interaction


Book Description

During the past decade, man's centuries-old interest in marine me teorology and oceanography has broadened. Ocean and atmosphere are now treated as coupled parts of one system; the resulting interest in air-sea interaction problems has led to a rapid growth in the sophistication of instruments and measurement techniques. This book has been designed as a reference text which describes, albng with the instruments themselves, the accumulated practical experi ence of experts engaged in field observations of air-sea interac tions. It is meant to supplement rather than replace manuals on standard routine observations or instnunentation handbooks. At the inception a textbook was planned, which would contain only well tested methods and instruments. It was quickly discovered that for the book to be useful many devices and techniques would have to be included which are still evolving rapidly. The reader is therefore cautioned to take nothing in these pages for granted. Certainly, every contributor is an expert, but while some are back ed up by generations of published work, others are pioneers. The choice of topics, of course, is debatable. The types of observa tions included are not exhaustive and topics such as marine aero sols and radio-tracers are omitted, as was the general subject of remote sensing, which was felt to be too broad and evol ving too rapidly. The guideline adopted in limiting size was maximum use fulness to 'a trained experimentalist new to the field'.




Ocean Wave Spectra


Book Description




The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind


Book Description

This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.




Ocean Waves


Book Description

Describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis - vital information for design and operation of ships.




Ocean Wave Dynamics


Book Description

Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)