Fluid Surfer
Author : Michelle Drielsma
Publisher :
Page : 179 pages
File Size : 25,82 MB
Release : 2016
Category :
ISBN : 9780646941028
Author : Michelle Drielsma
Publisher :
Page : 179 pages
File Size : 25,82 MB
Release : 2016
Category :
ISBN : 9780646941028
Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 466 pages
File Size : 19,25 MB
Release : 2016-04-26
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 0143109391
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author : Stephan Vanfleteren
Publisher :
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 27,1 MB
Release : 2018
Category : Black-and-white photography
ISBN : 9789492677365
- An incomparable new photo book about the international surf culture by Stephan Vanfleteren- Showcases captivating portraits of some of the world's surf iconsWith Surf Tribe, photographer Stephan Vanfleteren shows that there is far more to surf culture than just sport and competition. Surfing is also about a deep admiration and respect for the ocean, as well as the feeling of insignificance when confronted with the forces of nature. Surfers use the waves for fun, but also to forget and to battle, both with others and with themselves. Vanfleteren looks beyond the traditional borders of the United States and Australia and searches the globe for people who live in places where sea and land meet. He documents a fluid community, with nature as its sole leader. He has sought out young talent, living icons, and old legends, both competitive and free surfers. The photographs here are serene black and white portraits in Vanfleteren's well-known, haunting style; as always, he reaches below the surface and goes to the core of his subjects. Included, amongst many others, are Kelly Slater, Gerry Lopez, John Florence, Mickey Munoz, Filipe Toledo and Stephanie Gilmore. Surfer, journalist, and actor Gerry Lopez has contributed the Foreword. Surf Tribe has been exhibited in Knokke-Heist (Belgium), Kunsthal Rotterdam (Netherlands), Gallery Kahmann Amsterdam (Netherlands). The next exhibition will be in June 2019 in France. If you are interested in the stories behind the book, go to: www.surftribe.be
Author : Andrew Groves
Publisher : Die Gestalten Verlag-DGV
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 46,24 MB
Release : 2016
Category : Surfers
ISBN : 9783899556537
"Cold-water surfing, the most remote surf spots, spectacular photography, illustrations, and custom boards: Surf Odyssey documents the modern cult of surfing as its own subculture and way of life. There's much more to surfing than palm trees and beach boy cliches. People surf not only in Hawaii, but also in Norway, South Korea, and India. Surf Odyssey is a book about the world of surfing today and those that live in it. This community is made up of the surfers themselves as well as surf photographers and board builders who are also spreading its distinctive spirit into other creative fields. Comparable to the new outdoor movement, today's surfing is about an attitude toward life, a lust for adventure, and a love of nature that one can only find far away from established spots. Surf Odyssey presents this scene's places, people, stories, and brands. Its stunning photography is sure to inspire many further surfing exploits."
Author : Clark Little
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
Page : 241 pages
File Size : 19,64 MB
Release : 2022-04-05
Category : Photography
ISBN : 1984859781
Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
Author : Aaron James
Publisher : Anchor
Page : 342 pages
File Size : 40,52 MB
Release : 2017-08-08
Category : Philosophy
ISBN : 0385540744
From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.
Author :
Publisher : iUniverse
Page : 86 pages
File Size : 40,35 MB
Release :
Category :
ISBN : 0595311008
Author : Andrew L. Gerhart
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
Page : 800 pages
File Size : 45,35 MB
Release : 2020-12-03
Category : Science
ISBN : 1119597307
Fundamentals of Fluid Mechanics, 9th Edition offers comprehensive topical coverage, with varied examples and problems, application of the visual component of fluid mechanics, and a strong focus on effective learning. The authors have designed their presentation to enable the gradual development of reader confidence in problem solving. Each important concept is introduced in easy-to-understand terms before more complicated examples are discussed. The 9th Edition includes new coverage of finite control volume analysis and compressible flow, as well as a selection of new problems. Continuing this important work’s tradition of extensive real-world applications, each chapter includes The Wide World of Fluids case study boxes in each chapter. In addition, there are a wide variety of videos designed to enhance comprehension, support visualization skill building and engage students more deeply with the material and concepts.
Author : Stuart Holmes Coleman
Publisher : Macmillan + ORM
Page : 292 pages
File Size : 12,34 MB
Release : 2004-02-07
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 1429997125
This biography of legendary Hawaiian surfer Eddie Aikau is “a homespun homage to a modern-day folk hero” (Outside Magazine). In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a “waterman.” As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule’a. From Stuart Holmes Coleman, Eddie Would Go is the “fascinating” story of Eddie Aikau’s life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii (San Francisco Chronicle). “Enlightening . . . an impressive history.” —Surfing Magazine “A meaningful biography of a surfing hero . . . extraordinary.” —San Diego Union-Tribune “Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man.” —St. Petersburg Times
Author : Dan Webber
Publisher : Daniel Webber
Page : 91 pages
File Size : 44,37 MB
Release : 2012-04-13
Category : Body, Mind & Spirit
ISBN :
Surfism is a philosophy that views existence in terms that correspond to surfing. Portrayed metaphorically as a breaking wave, the mind is formed by the confluence of spatial and temporal relations. The link between reason and perception is represented by the surfboard responding to the wave as the wave responds to the reef. These spatio-temporal relations provide the structure for a model of the mind, depicting the cognitive processes that influence what we ‘make’ of reality.