Greg Noll


Book Description

One of the greatest surfers of all time, Greg Noll has built a considerable reputation as master of surfboard making, or "shaping." Today, collectors and surfers alike prize his unique brand of board. Recently featured in the award-winning documentary feature, Riding Giants, "Da Bull," in his iconic black-and-white striped trunks, was emblematic of big surf and fearless commitment. In addition to being a pioneer of big-wave surfing, surf movies, and surf magazines, by the mid-1960s, Noll was one of the largest surfboard manufacturers in the world. Now living in Crescent City, California, Noll still shapes twelve boards a year out of old-growth salvage woods-replicas of Duke Kahanamoku's olo and other exotica for collectors. The Art of the Surfboard combines the art of building extraordinary surfboards with fascinating surfing history and photography. It's a must-have for surfers and surfing history buffs of any age. The Art of the Surfboard includes: A biographical introduction to Greg Noll A concise history of the evolution of surfboards and construction techniques from ancient Hawaii to the modern era Descriptive step-by-step photo sequences with explanatory text on building balsa, foam, and classic wooden surfboards A chronological gallery of Greg Noll surfboards, vintage 1950 to 2005, featuring photographs, action shots, commentary from surfers and shapers, and from Greg himself on the boards and their eras Portraits of several important Greg Noll surfboard collectors and their collections, with accompanying bios and information on the boards A guide to the various Greg Noll surfboard labels and the years each was used Illustrated throughout with action surf shots taken by some of surfing's master photographers




Da Bull


Book Description

"Pioneer big-wave surfer, Greg Noll, was called Da Bull by his fellow surfers for his stubborn, straightforward and aggressive approach to the sport. His approach to life in general wasn't much different. His life revolved around surfing and everything the sport engendered. He made surfboards and surf films. He pioneered modern surfing in Australia. He discovered Mazatlan as a surf spot. He as the first to ride the fear-some waves at Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. He brawled and caroused with men, charmed and entertained women. Above all, he was Da Bull, one of the bravest and best of the big wave riders of his or anyone's era."--Amazon.com




365 Surfboards


Book Description

DIVThe surfboard is both a piece of sports equipment and a work of art. It is a marvel of engineering and for some, a path to fame and celebrity. It exudes both power and grace; it allows its rider to soar through the air or penetrate the watery depths. Centuries ago, early Polynesians considered the surfboard a religious icon, a means of worshipping the ocean. Today it is a cultural icon, a means of worshipping not simply the ocean but also those who seek to master its powerful and unpredictable forces./divDIV /divDIVIn 365 Surfboards, surfing expert and writer Ben Marcus brings together the most important, most interesting, and most innovative surfboards the world has ever known. From 12-foot-long koa boards of ancient Hawai’i to state-of-the-art modern boards utilizing streamlined design for maximum speed and maneuverability, the surfboard has undergone numerous revolutions and advancements through the years. Pioneering riders and shapers—from Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Blake, to Greg Noll and Hobie Alter, to Kelly Slater and Al Merrick—have brought their own personal touches and insights to continually refine and redefine the ultimate tool for riding the waves. Each of the 365 boards featured here are presented through color images and in-depth descriptions to offer a compelling and comprehensive history of the surfboard and the people, moments, and innovations that have revolutionized the sport./div




All for a Few Perfect Waves


Book Description

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.




The Encyclopedia of Surfing


Book Description

With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.




Surfing and the Meaning of Life


Book Description

All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole style-even a philosophy-of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life-or at least an enjoyable read. With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton-and with photographs that capture the thrill of the ride-this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it. And because, as Brock Little remarks in Fade to Black, "Adrenaline is a funny drug," a book about surfing must have its dose of humor-and this one does, along with surfings undeniable rush. The perfect philosophy gift book for the true surfer. "If you accept all the doctrines of society, you'll never be a surfer."-Nat Young




Surf Survival


Book Description

Three expert physicians/surfers trained in emergency medicine, sports medicine, and family medicine explain everything you need to know to stay safe in the water. Whether you’re a novice or an expert, an SUPer or a bodyboarder, Surf Survival is the only book that every surfer must have in his or her backpack, car, and beach house. This practical handbook explains everything from how to reduce a shoulder dislocation to understanding waves and currents, from how to treat jellyfish stings to how to apply a tourniquet. Whether you are surfing a crowded beach in California or a remote island in Indonesia, be prepared to handle surfing-related emergencies from hypothermia and drowning to wound care and infections. Topics include: • Fitness for surfers • Prevention and rehabilitation of common overuse injuries • Wilderness first aid • Surviving the sun • Surf-travel medicine • Surviving big surf • SUP • Surfer's ear • And much, much more! Written by three expert physician surfers, packed with color photos and illustrations, this is the authoritative medical guide for surfers and watermen.







Surfing USA!


Book Description

A history of surfing in America by a man who grew up surfing southern California in the 1970s and was there through all the big developments. This book will look at how the sport developed, the science of big waves, surfer personalities, the evolution of boards, and surf culture from movies to rock'n'roll to hot rodding. Along with the narrative text will be a large archives of surfing memorabilia, movie posters, album covers, and pop art. With photographs and artwork by Jeff Divine, John Severson, LeRoy Grannis, Ron Dahlquist, Rick Griffin, Greg Noll, Doc Ball, and more.




The Skateboard


Book Description

The story of the simple skateboard is part thriller, part underground, underdog success tale. It’s chock-full of innovations, far-out graphic artistry, and ever-more-incredible hot-dogging feats. And the story’s told in this book with contributions from the stars themselves—Tony Hawk, Stacey Peralta, Jeff Ho, the Dogtown Z-Boys, and more. Beautifully illustrated with historical posters, ads, and memorabilia along with new action photography, studio skateboard shots, and unique portraits of the stars, this is a fitting tribute to an American classic.