Directional Ocean Wave Spectra


Book Description

Das Buch enthält insgesamt 33 Vorträge, die anlässlich des Symposiums "Measuring, Modeling, Predicting, and Applying Directional Ocean Wave Spectra" gehalten wurden, welches von 19890418 bis 19890420 am Applied Physics Laboratory der Johns Hopkins Universität stattfand. Das Symposium war den Ergebnissen des Labrador Sea Extreme Waves Experiment (LEWEX) gewidmet, welches mit internationaler Beteiligung unter Einsatz von zwei Schiffen, zwei Radar- Fernerkundungsflugzeugen sowie Radar-Fernerkundungssatelliten im März 1987 in der Labradorsee durchgeführt wurde. Ziel war die Bestimmung von richtungsbezogenen Meereswellenspektren. Nach zwei einführenden Vorträgen in das Experiment LEWEX sowie in die Bedeutung der Wellenspektren widmen sich die übrigen Fachbeiträge folgenden Themen: Physik von Wind und Wellen (Wind-Wave Physics); Seegangsverhalten und Messungen an der Meeresoberfläche (Seakeeping and Surface Measurement); Luftgestützte und weltraumgestützte Radarmessungen (Air and Space Measurement); Numerische Modellrechnungen (Numerical Model Estimates); Zukünftiger Forschungsbedarf (Future Directions). 300 der während LEWEX gemessenen 2000 Wellenspektren werden vorgestellt und verglichen.










Ocean Wave Spectra


Book Description







Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters


Book Description

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.







The Directional Analysis of Ocean Waves


Book Description

An introductory discussion of the mathematics behind the directional analysis of ocean waves is presented. There is sufficient detail for a reader interested in applying the methods; further, the report can serve as an entry into the theory. The presentation is basically tutorial but does require a reasonably advanced mathematical background. Results of a program for the measurement of directional ocean wave bottom pressure spectra are included as an appendix. This second edition makes corrections to the first and adds some details of an iterative directional analysis method. (Author).