Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park


Book Description

The comprehensive guide to the place that brought sport climbing to North America— a full-color, thoroughly updated new edition Smith Rock State Park. It was on the impressive crags of this Oregon hideaway that American sport climbing came into its own, and to this day, some of the hardest climbs in the United States are found on these walls. Alan Watts, who has played a leading role in the development of this popular rock-climbing destination, details more than 1,700 routes at Smith Rock and the surrounding area. This new edition updates hundreds of routes, includes hundreds of new ones, and has new photos of each crag, wall, and route. No other guide is as comprehensive or thorough, and no author more respected for his intimate knowledge of one of the world’s most popular climbing destinations.




Smith Rock Select


Book Description

Smith Rock is where it all began the birthplace of American sport climbing. The soaring orange walls of this Oregon State Park have some of the best and most celebrated climbs in the country, and a wealth of terrain, both sport and trad, that will challenge climbers of all levels of ability. Discover it for yourself with this select guide to almost 300 of the best routes.




Climber's Guide to Smith Rock


Book Description

Comprehensive guide to this area in central Oregon that brought the sport of climbing to America.







Hangdog Days


Book Description

Fast-paced history-cum-memoir about rock climbing in the wild-and-wooly ’80s Highlights ground-breaking achievements from the era Hangdog Days vividly chronicles the era when rock climbing exploded in popularity, attracting a new generation of talented climbers eager to reach new heights via harder routes and faster ascents. This contentious, often entertaining period gave rise to sport climbing, climbing gyms, and competitive climbing--indelibly transforming the sport. Jeff Smoot was one of those brash young climbers, and here he traces the development of traditional climbing “rules,” enforced first through peer pressure, then later through intimidation and sabotage. In the late ’70s, several climbers began introducing new tactics including “hangdogging,” hanging on gear to practice moves, that the old guard considered cheating. As more climbers broke ranks with traditional style, the new gymnastic approach pushed the limits of climbing from 5.12 to 5.13. When French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout ascended To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, at Smith Rock in 1986, he cracked a barrier many people had considered impenetrable. In his lively, fast-paced history enriched with insightful firsthand experience, Smoot focuses on the climbing achievements of three of the era’s superstars: John Bachar, Todd Skinner, and Alan Watts, while not neglecting the likes of Ray Jardine, Lynn Hill, Mark Hudon, Tony Yaniro, and Peter Croft. He deftly brings to life the characters and events of this raucous, revolutionary time in rock climbing, exploring, as he says, “what happened and why it mattered, not only to me but to the people involved and those who have followed.”




Rock Climbing Washington


Book Description

This updated edition of Rock Climbing Washington features more than 1,500 routes throughout the state of Washington. Explore the granite cliffs of Index, Leavenworth, Darrington, and Tieton River Canyon; tackle the exposed alpine routes on the spires at Washington Pass; or hang from steep sport climbs at North Bend, Frenchman Coulee, and Marcus and China Bend near Spokane.




Legends of the Northern Paiute


Book Description

Legends of the Northern Paiute shares and preserves twenty-one original and previously unpublished Northern Paiute legends, as told by Wilson Wewa, a spiritual leader and oral historian of the Warm Springs Paiute. These legends were originally told around the fires of Paiute camps and villages during the "story-telling season" of winter in the Great Basin of the American West. They were shared with Paiute communities as a way to pass on tribal visions of the "animal people" and the "human people," their origins and values, their spiritual and natural environment, and their culture and daily lives. The legends in this volume were recorded, transcribed, reviewed, and edited by Wilson Wewa and James Gardner. Each legend was recorded, then read and edited out loud, to respect the creativity, warmth, and flow of Paiute storytelling. The stories selected for inclusion include familiar characters from native legends, such as Coyote, as well as intriguing characters unique to the Northern Paiute, such as the creature embodied in the Smith Rock pinnacle, now known as Monkey Face, but known to the Paiutes in Central Oregon as Nuwuzoho the Cannibal. Wewa's apprenticeship to Northern Paiute culture began when he was about six years old. These legends were passed on to him by his grandmother and other tribal elders. They are now made available to future generations of tribal members, and to students, scholars, and readers interested in Wewa's fresh and authentic voice. These legends are best read and appreciated as they were told--out loud, shared with others, and delivered with all of the verve, cadence, creativity, and humor of original Paiute storytellers on those clear, cold winter nights in the high desert.




Mammoth Area Rock Climbs


Book Description




Fifty Places to Rock Climb Before You Die


Book Description

A guide to some of the greatest locations around the world as recommended by expert rock climbers, with travel tips and stunning photos included. Covering three types of climbing—trad, sport, and bouldering—and showcasing breathtaking venues from Joshua Tree to Jeju, South Korea, this guide features insights from industry insiders, including employees from rock-climbing gear companies like Petzl and Black Diamond Equipment, professional climbers like Jon Cardwell and Kevin Jorgeson (co-star of Dawn Wall), filmmaker Michael Call, and Climbing magazine editor Matt Samet. And for those who want to travel to these locales, Chris Santella provides “If You Go” suggestions to help plan your trip. This essential travel companion for climbers of all levels of expertise features such locations as: Horse Pens 40, Alabama * Cochise Stronghold, Arizona * Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Colorado * Innsbruck, Austria * Castle Hill, New Zealand * Elephant’s Perch, Idaho * The Bugaboos, British Columbia * Arco, Italy * Red River Gorge, Kentucky * Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin * Acadia National Park, Maine * The Shawangunks, New York * Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge, Oklahoma * Chamonix, France * Railay Beach, Thailand * and more




Flakes, Jugs, and Splitters


Book Description

Rock climbers have an inherent interest in geology. For some, it’s about knowing what gear to use or how to avoid rotten bands of rock. For others, it’s about finding the next hot-spot boulder field, or understanding why their local crag exists. For most of them, curiosity about rocks comes as naturally as their desire to climb them. Geology is the fundamental control on the sport, and yet there are no practical guides for the climber interested in rocks. Flakes, Jugs, and Splitters fills the niche. With an informal Q&A format and fun, informative language, it brings the often esoteric science of geology into the hands of rock climbers. Covering topics from how to use a geologic map to finding new crags, from why Europe has the best limestone to how El Capitan’s North America Wall got its name, this book has a fact for every climber’s ponderings. Top-quality photographs of worldwide destinations and easy-to-read artist’s renderings of geologic concepts make it as visually engaging as it is entertaining and edifying.