Surf, Sand, and Stone


Book Description

"Meldahl tells the scientific story of the Southern California coast by blending research from geology and oceanography with a compelling narrative and clear illustrations that take readers out in the field with the author to learn about the processes that have generated the coast as it exists today and how the region will change in the future. The author's geographic scope spans from San Diego to Point Conception, taking in coastal portions of San Diego, Orange, Ventura, Los Angeles, and Santa Barbara counties"--Provided by publisher.




Sand Waves


Book Description




Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes


Book Description

The text begins by describing waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water, and unusual waves. Next, mainly theoretical aspects are considered of sediment movement and deposition by currents, before discussing wave action in the littoral zone, tidal current action on tidal flat and in estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides, and river flow in deltas. Finally, we examine shelf-sea processes, including an outline of their mineral resources.







APAC 2019


Book Description

This book presents selected articles from the International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC 2019), an event intended to promote academic and technical exchange on coastal related studies, including coastal engineering and coastal environmental problems, among Asian and Pacific countries/regions. APAC is jointly supported by the Chinese Ocean Engineering Society (COES), the Coastal Engineering Committee of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers (JSCE), and the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (KSCOE). APAC is jointly supported by the Chinese Ocean Engineering Society (COES), the Coastal Engineering Committee of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers (JSCE), and the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (KSCOE).




Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena


Book Description

Originally published in 1934, this book identifies and analyses the different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions to the knowledge of wave phenomena. Chapter one comprehensively explores the size and speed of ocean waves in relation to the velocity of wind, chapter two analyses waves in sand and snow formed and propelled by wind and current, whist chapter three investigates tidal bores and other progressive waves in rivers. The book also contains a variety of insightful and fascinating photographs presenting the different varieties of wave formation, such as tidal sand waves, leaping waves and the roll waves of a stream. This book will serve as an important reference work for researchers in the field and will be of considerable value to anyone interested in geophysics, climatology and oceanography.




Waves, Sand & Magic


Book Description

“Why do you always write magic in the sand of every beach you go to?” he asked as he watched her finger move through the sand in a rhythm writing the word. She smiled and said, “Because there is magic in the sand.” “What do you mean?” he further asked. “When you feel the sand under your feet,” she scrunched up her toes in the sand as she spoke. “And feel every granule of it, the noise of your thoughts suddenly sound like the waves. Just like magic.” Me




Sand Waves


Book Description







The World's Beaches


Book Description

Take this book to the beach; it will open up a whole new world. Illustrated throughout with color photographs, maps, and graphics, it explores one of the planet’s most dynamic environments—from tourist beaches to Arctic beaches strewn with ice chunks to steaming hot tropical shores. The World’s Beaches tells how beaches work, explains why they vary so much, and shows how dramatic changes can occur on them in a matter of hours. It discusses tides, waves, and wind; the patterns of dunes, washover fans, and wrack lines; and the shape of berms, bars, shell lags, cusps, ripples, and blisters. What is the world’s longest beach? Why do some beaches sing when you walk on them? Why do some have dark rings on their surface and tiny holes scattered far and wide? This fascinating, comprehensive guide also considers the future of beaches, and explains how extensively people have affected them—from coastal engineering to pollution, oil spills, and rising sea levels.