Tao of Surfing


Book Description

A New Way of Healing "Tao of Surfing is an inspired book and a unique reflection that will have a lasting effect on anyone who reads it." -Bob Walch, The Monterey County Herald The roads I travel and the waves I search for and ride exemplify the flowing movement and continuous change of life itself. - From the book "Author Allen in fine, thoughtful fashion writes well, informally, and there is haiku in his observations A delightful book, effortlessly wise." -The Book Reader "From the first pages of this remarkable book I was captivated by the gently profound philosophy of riding through life with graceful balance." -Greg Ambrose, author of Surfer's Guide to Hawaii and co-author of Memories of Duke, the Legend Comes to Life Internationally acclaimed and Pulitzer Prize nominated author Michael A. Allen, takes you on a journey into the recesses of your soul and explores the ontological question, "What is our underlying essence?" Mr. Allen uses the metaphor of the sea, and its ebb and flow, to describe the Tao of life's cycle. And he discovers within this unique reflection a new way to comfort and heal the Self from the trauma of death. His long time interest in film brought him to write the screenplay adaptation with his brother in law Alex Carig in order to make Tao of Surfing into a full-length feature motion picture. Mr. Allen was initially inspired to write Tao of Surfing after his brother-his surfing partner-died from the complication of AIDS.




Surfing the Tao


Book Description




California Reefs


Book Description

Davis, an acclaimed underwater photographer and cinematographer whose experience includes numerous filming expeditions for the Cousteau Society, provides both the stunning color photography and informative text that celebrate California's endangered offshore reefs. An appendix contains a plate-by-plate commentary on the photographic, lighting, and diving equipment used. 10x93/4". Paper edition (unseen), $16.95. Annotation copyrighted by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR




It's Great to Suck at Something


Book Description

Discover how the freedom of sucking at something can help you build resilience, embrace imperfection, and find joy in the pursuit rather than the goal. What if the secret to resilience and joy is the one thing we’ve been taught to avoid? When was the last time you tried something new? Something that won’t make you more productive, make you more money, or check anything off your to-do list? Something you’re really, really bad at, but that brought you joy? Odds are, not recently. As a sh*tty surfer and all-around-imperfect human Karen Rinaldi explains in this eye-opening book, we live in a time of aspirational psychoses. We humblebrag about how hard we work and we prioritize productivity over play. Even kids don’t play for the sake of playing anymore: they’re building blocks to build the ideal college application. But we’re all being had. We’re told to be the best or nothing at all. We’re trapped in an epic and farcical quest for perfection. We judge others on stuff we can’t even begin to master, and it’s all making us more anxious and depressed than ever. Worse, we’re not improving on what really matters. This book provides the antidote. (It’s Great to) Suck at Something reveals that the key to a richer, more fulfilling life is finding something to suck at. Drawing on her personal experience sucking at surfing (a sport she’s dedicated nearly two decades of her life to doing without ever coming close to getting good at it) along with philosophy, literature, and the latest science, Rinaldi explores sucking as a lost art we must reclaim for our health and our sanity and helps us find the way to our own riotous suck-ability. She draws from sources as diverse as Anthony Bourdain and surfing luminary Jaimal Yogis, Thich Nhat Hanh, and Jean-Paul Sartre, among many others, and explains the marvelous things that happen to our mammalian brains when we try something new, all to discover what she’s learned firsthand: it is great to suck at something. Sucking at something rewires our brain in positive ways, helps us cultivate grit, and inspires us to find joy in the process, without obsessing about the destination. Ultimately, it gives you freedom: the freedom to suck without caring is revelatory. Coupling honest, hilarious storytelling with unexpected insights, (It’s Great to) Suck at Something is an invitation to embrace our shortcomings as the very best of who we are and to open ourselves up to adventure, where we may not find what we thought we were looking for, but something way more important.




Surfing the Sea of Chi


Book Description

In an effort to overcome her lifelong fear of all things water, Lea takes up the challenge of surfing at forty years old. Even in the clear, shallow waters of Cocoa Beach, with her friend and avid surfer Mersea at her side, she struggles to catch her breath in waist-deep water because of her intense fear. But, using tai chi and qigong breath work techniques, she is able to calm her breathing and quickly realizes surfing is a lot like tai chi. Although going mostly unnoticed, breathing is the key to not only Lea's surfing success but also living a healthy, vibrant life. She explains how a healthy breath creates mind-body health. She also teaches us that the opposite is true: a panic, fear-based breath creates a life of anxiety. Each chapter begins with words from the primary Taoist text, the Tao Te Ching, and then uses those principles to explore surfing as a form of Taoism. Lea provides evidence of how chi arts can help heal many individual, societal, and environmental diseases in a cost-effective manner. Lea recognizes "spirit" as a simple, natural energy, not out of the ordinary. For complete health, people need harmony of mind, body, and spirit. Interwoven throughout her surf story is the need for self-responsible daily choices in order to achieve balance and harmony. You will be left with a sense of empowerment and the knowledge of simple chi arts techniques that have profound personal and planetary health impacts.




Stealing the Wave


Book Description

'A classic tale of sporting rivalry' Observer 'The tales are gripping ... surfing emerges as a dangerous, solitary and potential fatal obsession' Telegraph 'A fascinating glimpse into obsession' Independent A gripping true story of a tragic and bitter rivalry in the world of surfing Winter. Mid-eighties. Hawai'i. Two surfers are battling for supremacy at Waimea Bay, home to the biggest waves in the world. Old-school, and some say too old, Ken Bradshaw commands respect with his fearlessness and fearsome temper. Mark Foo is the new kid on the block. Icon of the younger generation, this photogenic Chinese-American wows the crowds with his lightning repertoire of cool moves. One perfect day at Sunset Beach, Foo audaciously steals a wave from under Bradshaw's nose, sparking a bitter feud that is to last for over ten years and end in tragedy.




Surfing Mr Petrovic


Book Description

Eleven-year-old Tao loves hanging around with his mates. He used to like surfing with his dad, too, until Dad left home to live with a fashion model. And his mum has a new boyfriend, with altogether too-brainy kids. When Mr Petrovic enters the scheme of things, he becomes the focus for Tao's anger.




The History of Surfing


Book Description

This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent




Surfing Spaces


Book Description

The act of surfing involves highly-skilled humans gliding, sliding, or otherwise riding waves of energy as they pass through water. As this book argues, however, this act of surfing does not exist in isolation. It is defined by the cultures and geographies that synergize with it – by the places, ideas, images, and other representations which at once reflect, create, and commodify this spatial practice. This book innovatively explores the spaces of surf and surf-riding, informed specifically by the perspective of human geography. Based on a range of critical turns within the social sciences, the book explores the locations, relational sensibilities, and transformative nature of surfing spaces, and examines how the spatial practice has been scripted by dominant surfing cultures. The book details how prescriptive (b)orders of access, entitlement, and marginalization have been created, and how, with the advent of new craft, media, and ideals, they are being actively challenged to redefine surfing spaces in the twenty-first century.




Tao of Chaos


Book Description

This exciting study explores similarities between China's I Ching and the genetic code and concludes that the same structure found in DNA also exists in this ancient book of wisdom, as well as in spiders webs, sunflowers, and antique Indian rugs. This, Walter maintains, is evidence that a Master Plan exists in which the Divine is the all-encompassing pattern present in all life. Illustrations. Charts.