2003 American Alpine Journal


Book Description

Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest of its kind-the world's journal of record for documenting big new routes and remote mountain exploration. This is the reference for anyone planning anything new in the mountains or venturing into remote ranges. This book contains nearly 200 pages of exciting stories about the most important climbs of the year-as told by the climbers themselves; and about 300 photographs, many with route overlays, and 20 locator maps. In continuing celebration of the American Alpine Club's centennial.




The American Alpine Journal 2003


Book Description

Published annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest of its kind-the world's journal of record for documenting big new routes and remote mountain exploration. This is the reference for anyone planning anything new in the mountains or venturing into remote ranges. This book contains nearly 200 pages of exciting stories about the most important climbs of the year-as told by the climbers themselves; and about 300 photographs, many with route overlays, and 20 locator maps. In continuing celebration of the American Alpine Club's centennial.




Accidents in North American Climbing 2020


Book Description

THE CLIFFS AND MOUNTAINS WE LOVE CAN BE UNFORGIVING. READ ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBING TO LEARN FROM THE MISTAKES OF OTHERS, SO YOU CAN CLIMB AGAIN TOMORROW. Published annually by the American Alpine Club, Accidents in North American Climbing reports on each year’s most significant and educational climbing accidents. In each case, rangers, rescuers, and other experts analyze what went wrong, helping climbers prevent or survive similar situations in the future. In-depth articles cover more topics, including avalanche safety for mountaineers and ice climbers.




Fatal Mountaineer


Book Description

Robert Roper's Fatal Mountaineer is a gripping look at Willi Unsoeld and the epic climbs that defined him--a classic narrative blending action with ethics, fame with tragedy, a man's ambition with a father's anguish. In 1963, Willi Unsoeld became an international hero for his conquest of the West Ridge of Everest. A charismatic professor of philosophy, Unsoeld was one of the greatest climbers of the twentieth century, a man whose raw physical power and casual fearlessness inspired a generation of adventurers. In 1976, during an expedition to Nanda Devi, the tallest peak in India, Unsoeld's philosophy of spiritual growth through mortal risk was tragically tested. The outcome of that expedition continues to fuel one of the most fascinating debates in mountaineering history.




The Stettner Way


Book Description

Joe and Paul Stettner have been called the first truesport climbers in America; contemporary and fellow legendPaul Petzoldt called them "the human flies" for theirbold and acrobatic style. Legends in the earlymountaineering community, they put up some of the mostdifficult routes in North America during a career thatspanned the ......




The Bold and Cold


Book Description

Over the past 100 years, climbers have been pushing standards in the Canadian Rockies. From long alpine ridges to steep north faces, the Rockies are synonymous with cutting-edge ascents. Peaks such as Robson, Chephren, Kitchener, the Twins and Alberta elude the many and reward the few. Many of the big faces were climbed between the 1960s and 1990, the golden age of alpinism in the Rockies. The men and women who first were part of that set high standards. Future alpinists read old journals and guidebooks, hoping to experience what the alpine "pioneers" did. For most, the Rockies require a certain edge that comes with age, humiliation and failure. Perhaps the ones who drink the most whisky, dream of the biggest peaks and sleep with snowballs in their hands are the ones rewarded with the momentary triumph of coming to a draw with one of these mountains. This is not a guidebook. Rather, it is a narrative history by the people who risked life and limb to establish these long, difficult and sometimes scary climbs.




Flame Of Adventure


Book Description

Simon Yates, author of Against the Wall, takes us back to his early years as a climber - the escapades and excitement of a young life lived on the edge and for the moment, when experience was all-important and dramatic achievements and failures came as naturally as the hair-raising risks themselves. A mountaineering travelogue of dazzling variety, The Flame of Adventure moves from the camaraderie of deprived Russian climbers in the little-known peaks in the Tien Shan to the awesome experience of the North Face of the Eiger, from a rumbustious motorbike ride across Australia with a psychotic lorry driver. We meet a remarkable gallery of climbers, from Doug Scott to Joe Simpson, and, when not exploring high mountains, we enter the bizarre world of rope access workers: mavericks balancing high above building sites on the London skyline.




Tenzing


Book Description

In 1953, Tenzing Norgay was at the heart of the successful British Everest expedition as leader of the Sherpas whose hard work brought victory and as one of the two lead climbers to reach the top. But behind Tenzing’s radiant smile is an untold story of courage, tragedy, and ambition, of a man who overcame incredible odds just to reach the bottom of the mountain. Born in a sacred Tibetan valley in the shadow of Everest, Tenzing’s long journey led him from life as an illiterate yak herder to become the friend of Nehru, feted by monarchs and presidents all over the world. Set against the backdrop of one of the greatest chapters in the history of exploration, Tenzing: Hero of Everest recounts the jubilant moments at the summit: “Tenzing was effusive, putting an arm around Hillary’s shoulders, and thumping him on the back with infectious delight. Hillary joined in.... Now all below them...the valleys where Tenzing had grown up. ‘It was such a sight as I had never seen before,’ he said, ‘and would never see again—wild, wonderful, and terrible. But terror was not what I felt. I loved the mountains too well for that. I loved Everest too well.’” Mountaineering historian Ed Douglas reveals for the first time Tenzing’s long climb from obscurity. Drawing on extensive interviews with family members, climbing partners, and members of the Sherpa community in Darjeeling and Nepal, the book chronicles his rise to fame and the aftermath of his triumph. The result is a wealth of new material about a man who made his people famous and whose life was the stuff of legend.




A Hiker's Guide to Scrambling Safely


Book Description

Unroped scrambling over so-called easy terrain is one of the most potentially dangerous recreational activities. Every year, scramblers are injured or killed in preventable accidents. "A Hiker's Guide to Scrambling Safely" educates new scramblers in the inherent risks, required climbing skills and mountain knowledge required for safety in the mountains.




Alpine Climbing


Book Description

* For climbers who know the basics and are ready to venture at higher altitudes* Written by longtime guides and climbing instructors certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)* Teaches situational thinking and learning as well as techniqueThis intermediate-level guide addresses tools, skills, and techniques used in alpine terrain including rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitude - approximately 5000 meters (16,000 feet) and lower. The technical protection systems are covered, of course. But 30 years of alpine climbing experience has convinced the authors that mastery - and safety - lie in the far more difficult task of knowing exactly which techniques to use, where and when. Therefore, they teach step-by-step decision-making skills, providing scenarios, checklists, and self-posed questions to inform the decision process. Alpine Climbing assumes some prior knowledge, primarily in rock climbing skills and techniques. Basic knots, belaying,rappelling, building rock anchors, leading, placing rock protection, and movement skills on rock: variations of these skills that are of particular value in the alpine environment are addressed in this book.