The American Alpine Journal 2020


Book Description




Accidents in North American Climbing 2020


Book Description

THE CLIFFS AND MOUNTAINS WE LOVE CAN BE UNFORGIVING. READ ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBING TO LEARN FROM THE MISTAKES OF OTHERS, SO YOU CAN CLIMB AGAIN TOMORROW. Published annually by the American Alpine Club, Accidents in North American Climbing reports on each year’s most significant and educational climbing accidents. In each case, rangers, rescuers, and other experts analyze what went wrong, helping climbers prevent or survive similar situations in the future. In-depth articles cover more topics, including avalanche safety for mountaineers and ice climbers.




The American Alpine Journal 2021


Book Description

The world's most comprehensive and respected source of information about each year's long new climbs and expeditions.* In-depth reports on major climbs, written by the climbers and carefully edited by a team of experts * Our Recon section covers the history, recent climbing activity, and new-route potential of a wild area. This year: the ice climbs of Newfoundland's western fjords * The 2021 edition includes a special report on climbs during the year of COVIDPublished annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is renowned as the world's journal of record for long new climbs of all kinds. The AAJ publishes each year's most compelling stories, told by the climbers themselves and carefully edited by a team of experts. Each year we reveal many newly discovered climbing destinations and unclimbed summits, from Alaska to the Karakoram.




Accidents in North American Climbing 2021


Book Description

Detailed accounts and in-depth analysis of rock climbing, mountaineering, and ski mountaineering accidents and rescues. * Beginners and expert climbers alike rely on these stories and analysis to become safer climbers * Articles written by certified guides and rescue professionals offer focused how-to advice throughout the book. This year, Know the Ropes describes the best practices for cleaning singlepitch climbs.Since 1948, the American Alpine Club has documented the year's most teachable climbing accidents, providing invaluable lessons to climbers. In Accidents in North American Climbing, each incident is thoroughly analyzed to help climbers avoid similar mistakes in the future. In our Know the Ropes and Essentials sections, professional guides and other experts offer in-depth instruction and copious illustration to help prevent avoidable accidents.




Hangdog Days


Book Description

Fast-paced history-cum-memoir about rock climbing in the wild-and-wooly ’80s Highlights ground-breaking achievements from the era Hangdog Days vividly chronicles the era when rock climbing exploded in popularity, attracting a new generation of talented climbers eager to reach new heights via harder routes and faster ascents. This contentious, often entertaining period gave rise to sport climbing, climbing gyms, and competitive climbing--indelibly transforming the sport. Jeff Smoot was one of those brash young climbers, and here he traces the development of traditional climbing “rules,” enforced first through peer pressure, then later through intimidation and sabotage. In the late ’70s, several climbers began introducing new tactics including “hangdogging,” hanging on gear to practice moves, that the old guard considered cheating. As more climbers broke ranks with traditional style, the new gymnastic approach pushed the limits of climbing from 5.12 to 5.13. When French climber Jean-Baptiste Tribout ascended To Bolt or Not to Be, 5.14a, at Smith Rock in 1986, he cracked a barrier many people had considered impenetrable. In his lively, fast-paced history enriched with insightful firsthand experience, Smoot focuses on the climbing achievements of three of the era’s superstars: John Bachar, Todd Skinner, and Alan Watts, while not neglecting the likes of Ray Jardine, Lynn Hill, Mark Hudon, Tony Yaniro, and Peter Croft. He deftly brings to life the characters and events of this raucous, revolutionary time in rock climbing, exploring, as he says, “what happened and why it mattered, not only to me but to the people involved and those who have followed.”




The Sharp End of Life


Book Description

Wife and mother. Teacher and musician. Marathoner and rock climber. At 66, Dierdre Wolownick-Honnold became the oldest woman to climb El Capitan in Yosemite--and in The Sharp End of Life: A Mother’s Story, she shares her intimate journey, revealing how her climbing achievement reflects a broader story of courage and persistence. Dierdre grew up under the watchful eyes of a domineering mother and realized early on that her parents’ plans for her future weren’t what she wanted for herself. Later, what seemed like a storybook romance brought escape, with new experiences and eye-opening travel, but she quickly discovered that her husband was not the happy-go-lucky man he had first appeared. Adapting as best she could, Dierdre juggled work and raising two young children, encouraging them to be fearlessly confident. She noted with delight how her “little lady” Stasia took it upon herself to look out for her baby brother, and watched in amazement as Alex (Honnold of "Free Solo" fame) started climbing practically before he could crawl. After years of struggle in her marriage and her ultimate divorce, Dierdre found inspiration in her now-adult children’s passions, as well as new depths within herself. At Stasia’s urging, she took up running at age 54 and soon completed several marathons. Then at age 58, Alex led her on her first rock climbs. A world of friendship and support suddenly opened up to her within the climbing “tribe,” culminating in her record-setting ascent of El Cap with her son. From confused young wife and busy but lonely mother to confident middle-aged athlete, Dierdre brings the reader along as she finds new strength, happiness, and community in the outdoors--and a life of learning, acceptance, and spirit.




Edge of the Map


Book Description

Edge of the Map is equal parts inspiring, dramatic, and heartbreaking. One of America’s greatest high altitude mountaineers, Christine Boskoff was at the top of her career when she and her partner died in an avalanche in 2006. Charismatic, principled, and humble, Boskoff was also a deeply loved role model to her climbing partners and the Sherpa community. Edge of the Map traces the sharp twists and turns in Boskoff’s life, from her early years as a Lockheed engineer, through her first successes in the climbing world, to her purchase of Seattle-based Mountain Madness after owner and climber Scott Fischer died in the 1996 Everest disaster. Her life was one of constant achievement mixed with personal tragedy. The story follows Boskoff as she perseveres and moves on to even bigger peaks, earning acclaim as a world-class mountaineer, then later as she finds an alpine partnership with legendary Colorado climber Charlie Fowler.




Emilio Comici: Angel of the Dolomites


Book Description

Winner of the Banff Mountain Book Competition: Climbing Literature Award The first English-language biography of one of the most renowned Italian climbers, Emilio Comici, who bagged over 200 first ascents in the Eastern Alps prior to his death at 39 years of age in 1940. Between 1925 and his death in 1940, Emilio Comici was the pre-eminent climber in the Eastern Alps, the hotbed of global rock climbing at that time. He made first ascents on some of the highest and most notorious walls in the Alps, including the northwest face of the Civetta, as well as dozens of other climbs. Comici invented many modern big-wall techniques and the big-wall idiom itself that later took root in Yosemite Valley. Comici also made solo ascents of some of the hardest routes in the Alps, including his climb on the north face of the Cima Grande. He also designed the first artificial climbing wall that was ever actually built. This book explores how family tragedy and growing up in working class Trieste under Austrian occupation shaped Comici's complex personality and attitudes toward climbing. He was loyal to his friends, deeply concerned about the vulnerable, including his fellow climbers, and yet highly competitive, a born vagabond and yet also a dandy, irresistible to women, and yet unable to settle down, devoted to his mother and to the mountains, and finally, like many other Italian climbers of the period, a member of the Italian fascist party although he was profoundly anti-German and opposed to racial persecution.




To the Greatest Heights


Book Description

"A memoir by Vanessa O'Brien, record-breaking American-British explorer, takes you on an unexpected journey to the top of the world's highest mountains"--